Im runnig true duals. Why is it that the exhaust presure/flow on the left pipe(rear) is not a powerful as the right(front)? This is at idle, once I give it gas it flows real good. Is it due to the fact that the rear jug is reversed from the front? My bike runs real good not issues, just a curious question.

2003Rk Classic
V & H slipons
SE/AC
Stage1
PCIII USB
Fulsac true dual conversion.

 

This is normal on a stock system but true duals should have the same flow. Your fuel map could be off at 0% throttle 500 to 1250 rpm not getting the BANGfrom the combustion or timing could be off a little or both. What kind of system did you use for fuel delivery?

 

I am using a PCIII usb. It is the same even in the stock configuration. It isnt real bad, the rear jug just seems to not hit as hard as the front when idleing. Compression is good and I just had the heads redone due to a gaulded exhaust guide in the rear jug. It did this before and after I had the heads reworked. The front cylinder is p-p-p-p-p-p-p-p-p-p-p. The rear is p-p-p-pp-p-p-p-p--p. I first tried to adjust the rear jug fuel mix at idle. I went richer then lean, no diffrence. I then adjusted the timing. I have added 5 degrees to the 0% col. on bothe the front and rear. I also adjust the timing wth the map split. Adding 5 degrees helped but in a perfectionist. rear cylinder is runnig a tad richer than the front.

 

Are you running a canned map or did you map each grid....did you use an advanced map or one map for both cylinders? Advanced map will have atwo fuel tables and two timing tables.To get the engine to Purrr like it should at idle and all throughout the map doing both cylinders separate is a must. Even though you have two cylinders and one cam profileeach cylinders Volumetric Efficiency will vary from each other more than you would think, so having the same fuel for both cylinders isn't efficent. Since the VE's are different the timing should vary alsoso having two timing tables is necessary too. Bottom line is this...you can tune just about everything perfect nowthat we have control of eachcylinder separately, of course this takes twice as long but it's well worth it.
Good luck

 

I split the map, 2 timing and 2 fuel. I know with out a dyno, Im just shooting in the wind. I did use a can map for a base line,M807-34. What with me having an OCD for perfection on things does not make life fun sometimes. My bike has never standed me, Starts on the first spin. What with me having a gaulded guide on the rear, could I also have had some cam damage? Im looking at getting a set of Andrews 26 put in this fall.

 

Your right...without a dyno your guessing. Canned maps will get you close but thats it. I bet when or if you get it tuned for your configuration it will run even better than you can imagine.

I doubt you have cam damage, if anything I would think a lifter would suffer before a cam. If you don't have lifter noise then it's probably alright too.

 

Doc1
I want to thank you for your input. It appears that you are highly thought of on this forum. One last question. Is it typical for the rear jug to run richer than the front. My rear plug has a nice light tan color to it and the front is just barley of white. Both have just a slight ring of carbon around the base and on about 1.5 to 2 threads? Wish I lived closer. Here in Kansas City a good tuner is non existant. I had a custom map made last year, but after reviewing it, it was a can map with very little changes and the map was not in advanced mode/split. This was done a a Harley dealer.

ZZ

 

ZZ first of thank you for the kind words and your welcome at the same time.
It's a common thing for the rear cylinder to get a better charge than the front cylinder in a bike with a carb. (too long to explain)
But with EFI there are no excuess if a map was done correctly. Some times with a 2 into 1 pipe we see issues of the rear blow down effecting the front cylinder AFR but when we see this we correct it with controlling the injector pulse width or cylinder trim on the PowerCommander. If you have a fueler then you have what you have because the ability for the fueler to remove small problems like this is NILL & VOID.
When you know how to use the Tuner correctly you won't have those problems...most people start adding here and taking away there and don't have a clue on how it is effecting the engine. Again guys lets spread the word to these shops aroud you with Dyno's that you know some one that is willing and able to come to them and train them to be a tuner....give them the HDMD Tuning Center number. I thank you in advance.
Doc