Question for carb guys
#11
RE: Question for carb guys
JMO...but I would take the 44 off and save it for when you go bigger, put the 40 back on and you'll eliminate all the dancing with the bigger carb. I'm running a 95" 10.5 CR , .650 lift cam, stage III heads, dyna ign, and Rineharts AND using the 44. NO WAY you need or will ever get that carb to do what you want on both ends effectively.
#13
RE: Question for carb guys
Okay, so I still haven't taken the bike in due to time restrictions, but let me ask, will the stock carb fit the s/e breather or do I need to change that back too? Seems to me like the s/e breather came with a different gasket that would work w/ the stock CV carb. That was a pain in the neck to get switched out.
#14
#16
RE: Question for carb guys
yes, the carb is too much. yes the 1st dyno guy had no idea what he was doing. the dyno was set up all wrong, hp and tourqe lines will ALWAYS intersect at 5252. period. he prob had it in the wrong gear (stock hd trans should be in 4th) and had the dyno's tach set up for the wrong spark (single fire vs dual fire)
13.5 is actually the best reality based A/F ratio for normal riding (14.7 is a perfect burn, but impossible to get ALL the fuel to atomize and burn in the real world)
the puffs of black smoke whenyou crack it is the accel pump which is not adjustable on that carb (too big of a carb, accel pumps too much gas) and a 230 on the 44 for an 88 sounds WAY to rich, makes me wonder when the last time he cleaned the EGA on his dyno. rule is, bigger carb, smaller jets (more airflow pulls more gas) and a 190 on the stock carb would prob do good, so on a 44 it should be smaller.
take it to the harley dealer with the dyno, but make sure that the dyno techs have been trained by dynojett or MMI (where dynojett sets the program). otherwise they will charge you and arm and a leg for nothing.
13.5 is actually the best reality based A/F ratio for normal riding (14.7 is a perfect burn, but impossible to get ALL the fuel to atomize and burn in the real world)
the puffs of black smoke whenyou crack it is the accel pump which is not adjustable on that carb (too big of a carb, accel pumps too much gas) and a 230 on the 44 for an 88 sounds WAY to rich, makes me wonder when the last time he cleaned the EGA on his dyno. rule is, bigger carb, smaller jets (more airflow pulls more gas) and a 190 on the stock carb would prob do good, so on a 44 it should be smaller.
take it to the harley dealer with the dyno, but make sure that the dyno techs have been trained by dynojett or MMI (where dynojett sets the program). otherwise they will charge you and arm and a leg for nothing.
#17
#18
RE: Question for carb guys...More suggestions...what do you think?
First of all, THANKS to you who have offered input on this matter. At this time, I am looking to keep my costs down and take more advantage of the 44CV as I have stated above and your advice is helping to shape my decisions.
I have spoken with Bean at Big Boyz Custom Cycles and he suggests that I can better take advantage of the 44mm CV by porting and polishing the heads, and sticking some cams in (S/E 203, 204 or something similar in profile by other man.) while maintaining the 88 for now, which will keep the costs down. I like this path since it seems like something I can build on and I don't have to put $3400 to $4500 right now and still increase the effectiveness of the 44.
I am out of town at the moment and spoke w/ the stealer in Concord, NC and it was suggested that I should just do the heads, cylinders, adj. push rods, 211 cams and on and on. It was also suggested that anyone who knows what there doing will charge $900 to $1000 to port and polish correctly. I think Bean is around $350 to $400 from our convo the other day. Now is this guy for real? Of course all those engine mods for 95ci and what not would really make good use of the 44, but the money is the prob for at least a 2 year time frame.
So, I think what Bean has to say makes good sense and obviously doing anything to the engine that improves upper rpm performance will take advantage of the 44. Can someone echo this for me? Also, what cam choice would you recommend in a gear and chain? I am thinking the 204 in the S/E, but haven't ruled out gear just for the fact I don't have to think about adjusting them.
Thanks so much for your advice and sorry for the long post!
I have spoken with Bean at Big Boyz Custom Cycles and he suggests that I can better take advantage of the 44mm CV by porting and polishing the heads, and sticking some cams in (S/E 203, 204 or something similar in profile by other man.) while maintaining the 88 for now, which will keep the costs down. I like this path since it seems like something I can build on and I don't have to put $3400 to $4500 right now and still increase the effectiveness of the 44.
I am out of town at the moment and spoke w/ the stealer in Concord, NC and it was suggested that I should just do the heads, cylinders, adj. push rods, 211 cams and on and on. It was also suggested that anyone who knows what there doing will charge $900 to $1000 to port and polish correctly. I think Bean is around $350 to $400 from our convo the other day. Now is this guy for real? Of course all those engine mods for 95ci and what not would really make good use of the 44, but the money is the prob for at least a 2 year time frame.
So, I think what Bean has to say makes good sense and obviously doing anything to the engine that improves upper rpm performance will take advantage of the 44. Can someone echo this for me? Also, what cam choice would you recommend in a gear and chain? I am thinking the 204 in the S/E, but haven't ruled out gear just for the fact I don't have to think about adjusting them.
Thanks so much for your advice and sorry for the long post!
#19
RE: Question for carb guys...More suggestions...what do you think?
honestly, if your doing cams, heads, etc... why not just pull the juggs and go 95"?? very little extra expense, you won't have to re cam when you do decide to do the 95, (there are better cams for the 95, that won't work too well on an 88) and the carb will run better as well.
Just my opinion, but why do everything but the 95"?? there is no replacement for displacement.
and i would def go with gear drive. or every 30K miles you'll have to get in there and change out the tensioners........... all harleys before the twin cam were gear drive, why they changed it, who knows.
Just my opinion, but why do everything but the 95"?? there is no replacement for displacement.
and i would def go with gear drive. or every 30K miles you'll have to get in there and change out the tensioners........... all harleys before the twin cam were gear drive, why they changed it, who knows.
#20
RE: Question for carb guys...More suggestions...what do you think?
ORIGINAL: jmetro
honestly, if your doing cams, heads, etc... why not just pull the juggs and go 95"?? very little extra expense, you won't have to re cam when you do decide to do the 95, (there are better cams for the 95, that won't work too well on an 88) and the carb will run better as well.
Just my opinion, but why do everything but the 95"?? there is no replacement for displacement.
and i would def go with gear drive. or every 30K miles you'll have to get in there and change out the tensioners........... all harleys before the twin cam were gear drive, why they changed it, who knows.
honestly, if your doing cams, heads, etc... why not just pull the juggs and go 95"?? very little extra expense, you won't have to re cam when you do decide to do the 95, (there are better cams for the 95, that won't work too well on an 88) and the carb will run better as well.
Just my opinion, but why do everything but the 95"?? there is no replacement for displacement.
and i would def go with gear drive. or every 30K miles you'll have to get in there and change out the tensioners........... all harleys before the twin cam were gear drive, why they changed it, who knows.
I agree 100% You will be happy if you do......