There is actually a little spring in that little needle that stops the fuel. The head that bumps against the float lever is where the spring is. Maybe the first one was broken or stuck, and the new one was working.

 

In my experience with CV carbs. there is no spring involved with the float and fuel valve assy. I think Kabear is describing the actual tiny wire clip that holds the float assy. to the fuel valve . As i previously stated , these tiny parts must be dealt with in a very concentrated way as they are so small and delicate.
More checks ... be sure the hole bottom that the fuel valve drops into is perfectly clean as the tiny rubber point on the fuel pintle valve must seat in this to prevent leaking fuel.
Check your float for leaks to see if its airtight.
Check the gas cap for proper breathing , if you hear a big whoosh on a hot day when removing the gas cap , it probably needs to be replaced.
Lastly ... invest in a proper HD manual . Your bike is 24 years old and it will be one of the best investments you will do.

 

http://www.cv-performance.com/harley_float_setting/

Check out this page and note the last diagram. Note the "pin return spring" that is located in the fuel inlet valve.

 

Hi Kabear.
Apperantly CV Performance is using an older generic pic. in this diagram to describe how to set a float level. They should have whited out the offending description of a spring loaded fuel valve as there is none on the carb. we are dealing with. I see this all the time at work and it gets worse as lots of schematics are now being translated from other languages. etc. etc.
You have a good eye to even notice this .
Cheers.

 

My Harley service manual shows the fuel inlet valve spring. I also have foggy memories of seeing it function when I cleaned and re-jetted my CV. I checked the float level while I had it apart.

 

There was no spring on my float needle. Not on the original or the one that came in the kit.

My brother and I did something that is going to cost me some additional work. We did not drill out the fuel mixture screw cover. The thought was that if the carb was set properly when new, and we were essentially getting it back to new with the rebuild kit we should be able to get away without touching it.

Several of you advised drilling it out. I know, I know. You can say 'I told you so'.

The bike runs much better, but it still seems rich based on the smell. I will pull the plugs soon to check them after I get some more miles.

My question is, what was wrong with our logic? How could the mixture not be right?

 

My question is, what was wrong with our logic? How could the mixture not be right?

the fuel in 1989 when that bike was built, was quite different than the crap they sell at the pump today - and the mixture screw, adjusts the proper air to fuel mixture for SAID fuel you are using

 

Very simple: your bike, like all vehicles made since, is tuned and set up at the factory to comply with the EPA regulations of that time. The ignition timing, cam timing and air/fuel ratios are all compromised to meet them. Even if you make no other changes (do you still have the stock air box and mufflers?!), a small adjustment of that screw is likely to give improved running of your bike.

If you have been reading other recent posts you will see that aftermarket ignition systems and cams are a regular subject in here, for the reasons mentioned.

 

The quality of the gas certainly makes sense. I am forced to run 10% ethanol here. That cannot be good for it.

The air box is stock. How can I tell if the exhaust is stock?

 

Put up a pic!