How to: Replace broken shifter pawl spring.
#11
If you remove shocks, isolator brackets, and the one side isolator that'll come off, is it possible to remove the empty case and swingarm together from the rear?,
then you could work that stuck pivot shaft.
#12
Thanks
And yes, I'll be removing it to clean up and swap the bushings. The pivot shaft is seized and it will be easier to pull the whole section out with the trans case empty. I've done it before on my old 81 FLT and wasn't fun by myself. Figured it would be a little easier this way
#14
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
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You don't need to do 4/5ths of what you show here.
Leave the primary side of the bike alone completely except for remove the shift lever from the splines and flicking the circlip off the shaft (you will need a new circlip and preferably the seal too.
Pull the top off the tranny and remove the shifter assembly.
Remove the clutch mechanism cover and the trap door assembly (Use a puller or hide Mallet and replace the bearings before reassembly)
You can now wiggle the countershaft out of the way just enough to remove the shifter shaft assembly and get a magnet in there to remove any missing pieces.
Reassemble in reverse order but fit the seal and circlip before replacing the countershaft.
Its a fiddle but will save you 3-4 hours and a shitload of cash.
Leave the primary side of the bike alone completely except for remove the shift lever from the splines and flicking the circlip off the shaft (you will need a new circlip and preferably the seal too.
Pull the top off the tranny and remove the shifter assembly.
Remove the clutch mechanism cover and the trap door assembly (Use a puller or hide Mallet and replace the bearings before reassembly)
You can now wiggle the countershaft out of the way just enough to remove the shifter shaft assembly and get a magnet in there to remove any missing pieces.
Reassemble in reverse order but fit the seal and circlip before replacing the countershaft.
Its a fiddle but will save you 3-4 hours and a shitload of cash.
#16
You don't need to do 4/5ths of what you show here.
Leave the primary side of the bike alone completely except for remove the shift lever from the splines and flicking the circlip off the shaft (you will need a new circlip and preferably the seal too.
Pull the top off the tranny and remove the shifter assembly.
Remove the clutch mechanism cover and the trap door assembly (Use a puller or hide Mallet and replace the bearings before reassembly)
You can now wiggle the countershaft out of the way just enough to remove the shifter shaft assembly and get a magnet in there to remove any missing pieces.
Reassemble in reverse order but fit the seal and circlip before replacing the countershaft.
Its a fiddle but will save you 3-4 hours and a shitload of cash.
Leave the primary side of the bike alone completely except for remove the shift lever from the splines and flicking the circlip off the shaft (you will need a new circlip and preferably the seal too.
Pull the top off the tranny and remove the shifter assembly.
Remove the clutch mechanism cover and the trap door assembly (Use a puller or hide Mallet and replace the bearings before reassembly)
You can now wiggle the countershaft out of the way just enough to remove the shifter shaft assembly and get a magnet in there to remove any missing pieces.
Reassemble in reverse order but fit the seal and circlip before replacing the countershaft.
Its a fiddle but will save you 3-4 hours and a shitload of cash.
I suppose you could. But this bike has 40k miles and anyone who has this spring break will be similar or more miles. So why risk missing a chunk of metal, not replacing all the seals and gaskets, inspecting the gears, and putting it back together with confidence.
This one had to come apart because he kept riding and shredded the broken spring. There's metal all through it.
Mike
#17
My understanding, from the time I had my 1990 spring replaced, is that the year of bike affects how much work is involved in replacing that spring. Later bikes are easier to get at through the top of the trans case, but in earlier bikes the shifter shaft cannot be removed without removing the gear cluster. The gear cluster was redesigned in 1994.
#18
#19
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
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I suppose you could. But this bike has 40k miles and anyone who has this spring break will be similar or more miles. So why risk missing a chunk of metal, not replacing all the seals and gaskets, inspecting the gears, and putting it back together with confidence.
This one had to come apart because he kept riding and shredded the broken spring. There's metal all through it.
Mike
This one had to come apart because he kept riding and shredded the broken spring. There's metal all through it.
Mike
I have done several of these using the method I described above and they are all still running.
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tar_snake (04-02-2023)
#20
40K is nothing on an Evo or TC Tranny, you can inspect the gears with the shafts still in the case. the spring just breaks off and drops into the bottom, its easy enough to get the pieces out. I use a rare-earth magnet....it tries to pull the gears out too
I have done several of these using the method I described above and they are all still running.
I have done several of these using the method I described above and they are all still running.
Mike