Anybody know what a worn rear motor mount looks like? In chasing my vibration issue I decided to pull that mount and have a look.
Here's what I've got:







There's no clearance at the bottom. Is that normal?

 

Looks toasted, although that's not the only thing that can cause vibration. Try a new mount first.

 

The two rear motor mounts that I replaced were in very similar condition. The degree of separation from the side metal is the most critical degradation. When I replaced them I noticed considerable relief from vibrations which felt like they were coming up the rear frame columns into my ****; I was happy that I replaced them when I did.

Pinetop

 

You've gone to the trouble and effort of getting them off, so don't put them back in! Replace both with new ones. If you don't have one, consider getting yourself a True-Track stabilizer kit, to really transform your bike!

 

The PO sent a True-Track along with the bike. I hadn't bother to try it until today. It's nearly installed but I have a question. The instructions say to adjust the front stop bolt until there's 3/8 clearance between the head of the bolt and the frame bracket. There's no way I can get 3/8 between the top of that bolt and the T bracket. Do they mean from the bottom of the bolt head? Everything looks to correct by the photos and instructions.

 

That mount is fine. It only touches on the bottom until you bolt it up and then the engines weight makes it have clearance. I bought one for nothing. My brand new one had almost zero clearance. I have pics in one of my threads of the new mount for comparison if you get bored and feel like searching for it. Think it's in the one I installed the VT front mount. Vt had way more impact on vibes. The rear did nothing.

 

Here's mine old and new for comparison for you.

 

Thanks KP, came to the same conclusion after a thorough examination.
I'm thinking the True-Track stop bolt won't adjust to specs because the PO shimmed the front mount. I suppose I'll pull the shims and see.
Right now I'm on dinner break from bleeding the back MC. Had to disassemble the rear brake to get the True - Track in. It better be worth it.
Thanks for all the help everyone. I'll report back later.

 

After a while I removed that 'adjuster' on my Dyna. As an engineer I could see no purpose for it. Despite tightening it when first installing the kit it came undone and jammed the front mount. A big twin can truly vibrate when under duress! So consider removing yours, or removing the lock nut and tightening the bolt home, to fill the hole.

 

How many miles on the bike before they should be checked? Also can you examine the rear without taking out themount to see if bad? Thanks