sealed bearing swap on a 95 roadking
#1
sealed bearing swap on a 95 roadking
I have recently purchased a 95 road king. It is my first Harley and tho it has a few quirks I need to work out I love it. So that being said I have a roar in my front end and am sure its a bearing (I'm an educated industrial mec. And a backyard mechanic since I can remember) I am looking to go to a sealed bearing setup instead of the tapered any one have experience with this on this bike or a compatible model. Any input is appreciated.
#3
I'm still running the original stock bearings in the front wheel of my 1990 Glide, bought new. I had to change the 'sealed' bearings on my Buell when I replaced the original tyres, after less than 5k miles! Sealed bearings and Harleys have history, but the tapered ones are just great. So just replace your knackered bearings and the separate seals with the same. They are bone stock industry parts, so can be bought from any bearing supplier. The OD of the tapered bearings is smaller than a suitable sealed bearing, so any replacement that will fit is going to be a compromise IMHO.
#4
Yes, the stock (Timken) bearings are the way to go.
Just pick up an assortment of shims first, new seals (james are pretty good and priced well, then get the Timken bearings). JP has all those items priced reasonably.
To remove the race, I used this tool: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=301196122622
I did not buy the separate driver handle, as I used some 1/2 inch threaded rod with a nut and a washer as my driver/handle. This tool made removal and install a piece of cake. A forum member recommended this tool to me and it was worth the $23 bucks.
There is a third piece to that bearing remover that comes with it, but is not in the picture. I was told it needs to be slightly modified for it to work with the cast hubs, but it does not need to be, and if you use that tool, PM me and I will explain in more detail.
This write up is the info I used (along with the factory manual):http://www.harley-davidson-hangout.c...-bearings.html
The dial indicator and base can be picked up from Harbor freight for cheap. Yes, a little initial investment in tools, but, it will be worth it in the long run. The tapered bearings are a better design and will last along time if no water gets in them and properly set up.
Just use good quality grease, proper end play, and good seals. Avoid blasting the hubs with water from a hose or power washer, and of course some occasional clean and re-grease, they will last waaay longer than the roller bearings. YD
Just pick up an assortment of shims first, new seals (james are pretty good and priced well, then get the Timken bearings). JP has all those items priced reasonably.
To remove the race, I used this tool: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=301196122622
I did not buy the separate driver handle, as I used some 1/2 inch threaded rod with a nut and a washer as my driver/handle. This tool made removal and install a piece of cake. A forum member recommended this tool to me and it was worth the $23 bucks.
There is a third piece to that bearing remover that comes with it, but is not in the picture. I was told it needs to be slightly modified for it to work with the cast hubs, but it does not need to be, and if you use that tool, PM me and I will explain in more detail.
This write up is the info I used (along with the factory manual):http://www.harley-davidson-hangout.c...-bearings.html
The dial indicator and base can be picked up from Harbor freight for cheap. Yes, a little initial investment in tools, but, it will be worth it in the long run. The tapered bearings are a better design and will last along time if no water gets in them and properly set up.
Just use good quality grease, proper end play, and good seals. Avoid blasting the hubs with water from a hose or power washer, and of course some occasional clean and re-grease, they will last waaay longer than the roller bearings. YD
#5
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leafman60
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04-16-2017 11:02 AM