Some of you may have seen my other thread about my "mid range pop".

Today I went over to where I keep my bike, fired it up, did the carb cleaner spray test to see if I had a leaking intake, and the results were "negative". Rpms did not change at all when I tested.

Time to rebuild the carb, I guess.

First thing I notice is that the original factory clamp is on the fuel supply line. 66K miles on it and I'm guessing this carb has never been off.

Now...I am not a complete mechanical idiot. In fact, I swung wrenches for many years, but in the car world. I can rebuild a Quadrajet almost with my eyes closed. However, I have NEVER worked on a bike before today. I did get the factory manual for my '98 Electra Glide, but as far as removing the carb goes, it was as helpful as ScentLock camo in church when you fart.

So I figure...how hard can this be? I start to pull the carb. Didn't know I had to remove the special hollow bolts that hold the chrome tube between the heads to get the damn thing off. Left some skin from a knuckle on my front jug. Now I'm feelin' like I'm doing something.

Figured out how to get my throttle cables unhooked, that was pretty easy, but I'm sure I did it wrong (removed the whole bracket).

Then... I went to remove what I THOUGHT was a vacuum line. "pop"..."snap"...oh crap!...there is a cable in there. No problem...put the boot back on.

.........after I managed to get the carb off....after I figure out that this was the other end of the choke cable.....I try to work the cable, and I can pull it, but it will not stay in place.

Did I break the damn thing, or does it need to be in its bracket and tightened to work right?

 

FYI, technically it's an enrichener not a choke. Take it off and re-install. All the reistance is from the carb side.

 

The knurled black plastic "nut" behind the **** adds tension on the cable when you tighten it. Just don't over-tighten it, they can crack fairly easily.

 

I've had 3 "choke" cables. When they are new, they work fine. the one I have now is about 3 years old, and the friction needed for it to function right just isn't there. I've been filing the stem a little trying to get some friction. It works the first time I use it, next time not. My plastic nut jumps a thread. This is another Harley "design" that just drives me nuts. And, once when I bought a new one, the parts guy at the Harley dealer told me, "OIL IT TWICE A MONTH WITH 6 IN ! OIL". Never heard of 6 in 1 oil, so I used 3 in 1. That one was totally worthless after that. It states specifically in the manual "DO NOT OIL IT, IT REQUIRES FRICTION TO FUNCTION PROPERLY". If it ain't the lousy design, it's an idiot at the Harley shop that screws you. Grab a new one, it will work fine for a while.

 

Choke, enrichener, who cares? it does the same job as a choke....tighten the nut behind the choke ****...gently... and see if it works ok....if you have stuffed the cable so it won't stay out you can use a clothes peg until you can get a new cable.

For what its worth....don't just yank on things that don't come off right away...it gets expensive.

 

I snapped mine on Saturday. Who puts a 11/16" steel nut on plastic threads? Gave it nice snug... snap! Dealer had a pile of replacement cables- $14.95. I guess they go through a lot of them. You need to swap over a few parts on it so don't throw the old away if you broke it.

 

The steel nut on plastic threads is so that the threads compress and put friction onto the steel shank of the ****.

 

With those type of seals the motor will not speed up unless you have a terrible leak,you need to watch the exhaust for a puff of smoke when you spray it.

 

Thanks guys. Sorry haven't responded sooner. Been training a new guy at work and been on the road, away from computer.

Sounds like when I put the cable back in the bracket and tighten the cheap plastic nut, stuff will work again.

Spanner...I'll try to remember not to yank on things.

 

I have found if the plastic nut is a little on the loose side I can pull the **** out and give it a twist and it will stay where I put it. I only use mine to start first time in the morning though, and just pull it out with my left hand and hit the starter button with my right hand. I always check for neutral first. I then push it all the way in and lock the throttle till it warms up a bit.