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from the last posted pix, can't see the two images in prior, I cannot see your slide. i cannot see the return cable. How many cables from the right handlebar assembly go under the tank? I wanna see the slide too because with the dirty, oily grease build-up on your whole carby area i would suspect that if in fact the two cables are there then you may get off with a thorough douching. There is no return spring there to go with a 1 cable setup, that much is clear.
God (and THC) forgive me but traildog may be right and get some seafoam and an old paint bucket and get that carb cleaned up. it can't hurt. that 30 year old intake seal may be in need of chaning too to be on the safe side. In fact all three intake seals for around $5.
another 'upgrade' to consider is to replace the allen bolts on the manifold ovals for some hex bolts. Thanks J86 for dat one.
good luck

 

I see you just posted a photo.

That's a later model CV carb. Someone has upgraded your carb, which would include the intake and some variation of air filter. It looks as though it was really filthy on the exterior perhaps from the previous application it used to be installed in. Might be best to rebuild it with a kit and soak the carb to release the crud. Then use air to blow both directions in all passages afterwards.

I'd start with the intake leak test. Odds are good the seals are shot and it's allowing unwanted air into the fuel system. Have the bike running and mist simple water around the intake seal behind the carb. Keep the mist away from the carbs inlet or it will fault the test. With water you'll find if air is leaking into the intake seals when the engine slows or even stalls while misting.

Some use other methods including simple carb cleaner, but the over spray from any chemical will damage the finish. If you use something flammable you have to be cautious not to ignite it which is hard to test with the motor running, but in that case it would cause an increase in revs at an idle. Water and carb cleaner will slow the rpms or stall the motor if you have an intake leak.

Another note: It's best to remove the tank and the horn mount assembly when replacing the intake's rubber seals. Often two of the 4 bolts are positioned where you have to adapt a tool to fit right, or buy the correct tool. Then snug to torque specs. Over tightening them will lead to leaks and damage the fresh seals. Also remount the carb loosely and position the carb to be able to tighten it down once the air filter is reassembled. This is important because if you bolt the carb solid to the fitting it may not be lined up and once you install the air filter which is a brace for the carb you must have a perfect alignment before tightening the carb in position. At least this is true with my keihin butterfly carb which was probably the original stock carb on your '85.

A few other things that comes to mind is float bowl level, if not precise you will have all of the issues you mentioned. And the petcock filter in the tank could also be crudded up with tank debris and restricting flow. The white plugs say lean operating conditions but dieseling after shutting down is often a timing issue or a too rich issue.

 

There are 2 cables coming from the throttle, where is the slide located? I will check the intake seals tonight. How do I check the float bowl level? I need to find a good repair manual. Being a different carb if I need to rebuild it what kit will I need? Are all CV carbs the same?
Thanks to everyone for all the help and advice.

 

It is a Harley Keihin CV carb as noted by the others. I don't know if that is original or a previous owner add on, as I'm not familiar with the 85.

Edit: I believe the 85 had the Keihin butterfly carb, not the CV.

I would wager the carb needs a total cleaning. There are a lot of small passages, etc, that need to be soaked, etc. As I replied earlier in this thread, just spraying it down with carb cleaner may not get the part cleaned that is causing the problem(s). Taking it all apart, will give you the opportunity to evaluate the diaphragm on the slide and the accelerator pump.

Removing the carb will also let you inspect the carb intake seal (what holds the carb to the intake manifold) for wear and tear. Most, if not all, rebuild kits will include a new carb seal.

Get one of those 3/4 gallon cans Chem-Dip carb cleaner, and put it in there overnight. Rinse, re-assemble to specs adding new parts as necessary, ride...

 

Thanks everyone for all the info. Hopefully I can get this issue taken care of

 

Keep in mind all rubber parts will be damaged by the carb soaking in cleaner. Most all of them will be in a rebuild kit, which is also going to come in handy for this old carb. Be certain to go by the numbers on the carb. I know for a fact this is not a stock '85 carb.

 

Ok thanks. I did call the local Harley shop today and they said they should have all the parts in stock, So I will likely just rebuild the whole carb and see if that cures the problem

 

Nightrider. com has helped me much. Check well for a crack in the carb body. I went through hell and found a small crack that caused the symptoms you relate. It is really a very simple carb to clean and rebuild. Almost fun when you get into it. Good luck.

 

Ok thanks. I called the local Harley shop today and they said they stock all the parts to rebuild the carb so I think that's what I will do.