Got a stock evo with a Super E shorty.
At partial throttle I can hear a slight detonation. At full throttle it's quiet and pulls good. idles good. If I retard the timing anymore the bike runs like crap. The plugs are a light tan colour. I suspect that it's running too small of a intermediate jet??
I've read that a stock Evo should have a .295 intermediate jet which is the smallest jet?
Any thoughts?

 

.295 is not the smallest intermediate jet available.

 

Checked the manifold no leaks.
Took carb apart and intermediate jet is 31 and main is 66

 

It sounds like you have a pre 2004 carb.
Ask Dr Hess what jets he uses in his.

 

By the way I am basing that on the small main jet you have.

I'm running a .0295 intermediate with a .072 main.

I have tried all kinds of other jet configurations but came back to that one as it just runs the best there.

 

Your VOES switch may not be operating correctly

 

Detonation is usually timing related, not so much fuel mapping. It can be, but usually not at part throttle conditions in my experience. Sometimes at WOT, maybe.

I'd check the timing first. Set the timing by a timing light per the book and check the VOES switch like Tom says. If all that is OK, then start messing with the jets.

I'm running a 265 intermediate and a 64 main, and yeah, I guess I have a "pre-2004" Super E.

 

Everything I've read says about a 295 intermediate and a 70 main.
Since I replace the jet to a 33, throttle response seems crisper. Go figure!?
.066 main seems to work too.
The bike is a 72 FLH with a 87 evo running points. (I like points)
If I really retard the timing the "pinging" almost goes away but performance goes down the tubes. If I advance the timing, the motor pulls good but then I hear that friggen rattle.
Whether the motor is totally stock or not I'm not sure.
I bought the motor 5,000 miles ago used, to replace a broken shovel.

 

If you have points ,your advance springs may be wore out causing advance to come in too fast.

 

Ditto Dr. Hess ... check the timing with a timing light as per. the manuals procedure and also look at the back of the voes. switch for a rotted wire where it enters the switch . If the wires look ok try pulling on them to determine if they are still actually in connection with the switch. My voes looked ok but when i pulled on the wires , one of them came off easily. The wire inside had corroded open and the only thing holding the wire on was the insulating plastic covering of the wire . After vacume testing the switch to ensure it was ok ., i was able to carve out the original sealant material to expose the connectors , i then reconnected new wires to the voes and resealed the back of the switch with new sealant . My sled is a 1990 model and have found that due to vibrations from the motor , age of the bike , and stress points at the various locations on the wiring harness , i have had to do more than this to find open circuits in wiring that looked ok but in fact the internal wires were open but the outer casing looked ok.
On older sleds like yours i suggest you do a wire " pull test " as descibed above on the harness located between the main frame and front end that pivots as you steer . In many cases this old stressed wiring has only one or two strands of wire left unbroken inside the plastic covering and a good pull on each wire will show each weak spot by the plastic stretching out of shape .
Older bikes Rule but older wiring can cause you headaches galore unless you ensure the wiring is ok beforehand !!!