Ignition Question
#1
Ignition Question
The Computerized Control Module (ECU, Black Box, Brain, whatever you want to call it) had the ground wire break off right at the base of the unit. The VOES is also disconnected and wiring mangled as well. Am I correct in assuming I could install the below ignition system with a matching dual fire coil and be all set? Or does the CCM need to be installed along with the new pickups?
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/380-443
To clarify, from the way I understand it, by installing this ignition system, there is no need for a new CCM, and I can just leave it out? Thanks guys.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/380-443
To clarify, from the way I understand it, by installing this ignition system, there is no need for a new CCM, and I can just leave it out? Thanks guys.
#2
It would probably work with your existing coil. However, you don't want to use that. While you are correct in that it would eliminate the ignition module, you are also going to mechanical points, which go bad regularly, and the whole pickup and ignition system inside the cone, where it can cook and get nice and hot. You would be a lot better off digging into your existing module and soldering onto the ground wire and reconnecting your VOES, or buying a new proper module and hooking up the VOES, or going with one of the other popular ones like the Ultima or whoever makes that one.
#3
i thought about doing that and i have done it before on other bikes, but i have the money and didn't know if an upgrade was in order or not.
It has also been my experience with jap bikes that "upgrades" (like pod filters on old I4's) are an extreme headache. not sure if the ignition system was one of those things.
It has also been my experience with jap bikes that "upgrades" (like pod filters on old I4's) are an extreme headache. not sure if the ignition system was one of those things.
#4
Oh, "upgrades" to the ignition system are certainly one of those things. The Crane modules that were all inside the cone left a lot of people stranded with no spark, for example. That was before Crane went bankrupt and was bought out by S&S.
Also, don't be fooled by the ones that fire only one plug at a time. If you have a super motor build, you might pick up something from retarding the back a couple degrees, but some of the modules won't allow you to do that anyway, and otherwise, there is no advantage from firing the plugs one at a time versus waste spark (the factory system of both plugs firing at the same time.) Adds more complexity for no HP gains, according to those that dyno'ed them.
Also, don't be fooled by the ones that fire only one plug at a time. If you have a super motor build, you might pick up something from retarding the back a couple degrees, but some of the modules won't allow you to do that anyway, and otherwise, there is no advantage from firing the plugs one at a time versus waste spark (the factory system of both plugs firing at the same time.) Adds more complexity for no HP gains, according to those that dyno'ed them.
#5
The ignition pictured uses the old point style advance system with an electronic pickup. The is an old and outdated by todays standards. Yes it will work and there are still bikes running this set-up out there. However a new computerised version is light years ahead of theis. Plus as the advance is mechanical the VOES won't work. In order to change the advance you need to change springs, weightsm or bothe. Many times when we used them you would be going after teh weights with a grinder or hand file to "fine tune" your advance. Hope this helps.
John
John
#6
When the module went bad in my 84 Iron Head Sportster, I got a coil, breaker plate, points and condenser for $35.00. I changed it out, regapped the new plugs, and rode it 20,000 miles with out a problem. I thought it ran better than it did with the module. It did drop my gas mileage a little as it did not advance as far as the module did on the hiway.
#7
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#9
Sorry , ingot cut off.
As I was saying, thanks for the advice. I ended up splitting the difference. I bought that one, and the "better" dynatek one. I plan on tossing the cheapo one in the saddle bags for long trips just in case. Also got a new coil, wires and plugs. Trapping electronics in the heat of the cone doesn't seem too bright, but then again, bolting it to the oil tank doesn't seem too much better.
As I was saying, thanks for the advice. I ended up splitting the difference. I bought that one, and the "better" dynatek one. I plan on tossing the cheapo one in the saddle bags for long trips just in case. Also got a new coil, wires and plugs. Trapping electronics in the heat of the cone doesn't seem too bright, but then again, bolting it to the oil tank doesn't seem too much better.
#10
This is a magnet fired system, if it were me, I'd go for one of the "Hall effect" systems.
Heat has an affect on magnetism, the "Sun" is a good example.
They are on the same page in J&P's catalog. There is a Compu-Fire system in the Sporty on this reply, worked perfectly for many miles, was a kick only, and always fired on the second kick. Won a lot of beers with that system because the old Iron Heads were notorious for not wanting to fire.
Just my .02
Heat has an affect on magnetism, the "Sun" is a good example.
They are on the same page in J&P's catalog. There is a Compu-Fire system in the Sporty on this reply, worked perfectly for many miles, was a kick only, and always fired on the second kick. Won a lot of beers with that system because the old Iron Heads were notorious for not wanting to fire.
Just my .02
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