If jumping from the battery didn't work then you either have a problem with your solenoid or your starter relay is no good.

What voltages are you getting on the various pins on your relay and what is the voltage at the end of the green wire (where it connects to the solenoid)?

 

Glad it helped, Snake.

D1gger, coils don't get weaker. However, time makes corrosion. Corrosion increases resistance which reduces current flow which makes the coil's magnetic field weaker. My theory is that weaker field doesn't slam the solenoid in as hard, which causes more arcing which makes for a poor connection. I think adding the extra relay is the best thing anyone can do. The original wiring was just not thought out properly for the long term in my opinion. It is amazing they worked as long as they did.

I had to add an extra relay to my Corolla as well for the same Dreaded Click problem. I used your relay-drives-relay method on that one with a Ford fender mount solenoid instead of my parallel relay method, to keep it simpler. Haven't had a Dreaded Click on it since.

 

Glad it helped, Snake.

D1gger, coils don't get weaker. However, time makes corrosion. Corrosion increases resistance which reduces current flow which makes the coil's magnetic field weaker. My theory is that weaker field doesn't slam the solenoid in as hard, which causes more arcing which makes for a poor connection. I think adding the extra relay is the best thing anyone can do. The original wiring was just not thought out properly for the long term in my opinion. It is amazing they worked as long as they did.

I had to add an extra relay to my Corolla as well for the same Dreaded Click problem. I used your relay-drives-relay method on that one with a Ford fender mount solenoid instead of my parallel relay method, to keep it simpler. Haven't had a Dreaded Click on it since.

 

Dr. Hess, that's what I meant, but worded it perhaps a little too simply to be the most accurate. You're absolutely right, the age causes internal corrosion which increases internal resistance of the wire thus decreasing current flow and shrinking the power or strength of the magnetic field while in turn increasing temperatures of the coil wire thereby speeding up the reaction that increases the corrosion to begin with. Perhaps a smoother solenoid plunger or weaker return spring would also help, but then you might run the risk of the spring not being stiff enough to break the connection once made causing the starter to stay engaged when not called for. Adding a relay to fight the dreaded click is also a well known trick in the Samurai/Sidekick circle as well. I've done it to a couple of my older Suzuki's with excellent results.

 

Ok heres what I got for voltages, ignition on, at the relay
87- 12.39 when start button is pushed
86- 11.97 when start button is pushed
85- 0.01 whether start button is pushed or not
30- 12.39 (this is jumped from the battery pos. with 20amp fuse)

Green wire at solenoid was 12.39

Also cleaned the copper washer and tabs in the solenoid last week

 

With those results your starter relay is fine.
The problem is in your solenoid/starter.
Rebuild or replace your choice.

 

Thats some good news lol

So both are bad or starter is or solenoid is? Where to start on diagnosing both?


Thanks

 

Man to be honest if it were me I would just slap a new one in there.

 

Um, actually he should be getting the same thing on 85 that he's getting on 86 when the button is pushed, shouldn't he? Could be a bad relay with a broken coil in it, couldn't it? Does the relay click when you push the button? No click means the coil inside the relay is bad or the contacts are dirty/not making good contact.

 

Ignore me... your relay must be good otherwise you wouldn't have any voltage at the green wire at the solenoid...