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Trouble Starting 1996 Heritage Softail - Click But Not Turning OVer

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  #11  
Old 05-23-2013, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Run a fused wire (20 amp) from your positive post on your battery to pin 30 on your starter relay.

On your bike you don't have to add the extra relay.
- could you please expand on this . In the fuse/relay compartment (behind the batt/ignition control unit) , there is a starter relay which is activated when the starter switch is pressed.

- is that wire supposed to run from that starter relay to the batt's positive post ?

- and why do I not need the "extra" relay ?

- thanks for the help ! Desperate here !!

.
 
  #12  
Old 05-23-2013, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by pistole
- could you please expand on this . In the fuse/relay compartment (behind the batt/ignition control unit) , there is a starter relay which is activated when the starter switch is pressed.

- is that wire supposed to run from that starter relay to the batt's positive post ?

Yes (don't forget the fuse)

- and why do I not need the "extra" relay ?

Because your model doesn't use the 87a pin

- thanks for the help ! Desperate here !!

.
Man I went through what you are going through now.
I replaced the battery, starter , about 6 starter relays, the handlebar switches, and added a start button to my solenoid before I found this website and the real answer to the dreaded click problem.

I gave you the quick answers above but for a more complete answer see the adding a relay stickey.


The dreaded click is a very common problem on older Harleys and it is caused by corrosion developing in the connections of the wiring harness.

If you run the fused jumper all you are doing is bypassing the harness.
 
  #13  
Old 05-25-2013, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Run a fused wire (20 amp) from your positive post on your battery to pin 30 on your starter relay.

On your bike you don't have to add the extra relay.
- hi .

- i did what was suggested there. But it resulted in my ignition being constantly live ! Ie , whether I turn-one the ignition or not , the ignition was on (the lights , oil warning light , neutral light).

- am guessing that that is not supposed to happen since by splicing into post 30 (the thick red wire with black stripe) on the relay and laying a wire direct to the batt , its only to allow a stronger current to flow into the starter solenoid (the green wire)

- any suggestions ?

- argh ... am gonna start pulling out my hair.

.
 
  #14  
Old 05-25-2013, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by pistole
- argh ... am gonna start pulling out my hair.
Don't do that yet. If I'm not mistaken THC has dealt with that same problem or something similar. I seem to remember a thread about it.
Be patient.
 
  #15  
Old 05-25-2013, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by pistole
- hi .

- i did what was suggested there. But it resulted in my ignition being constantly live ! Ie , whether I turn-one the ignition or not , the ignition was on (the lights , oil warning light , neutral light).

- am guessing that that is not supposed to happen since by splicing into post 30 (the thick red wire with black stripe) on the relay and laying a wire direct to the batt , its only to allow a stronger current to flow into the starter solenoid (the green wire)

- any suggestions ?

- argh ... am gonna start pulling out my hair.

.
First you weren't supposed to splice into it you were supposed to run a new wire.

Second your guess is correct as 90% of the time the dreaded click is caused by too much corrosion on the many connections in the wiring harness which limits the amount of current to the starter.

The small fused wire bypasses the wiring harness.

Try again but don't just hook into the existing wiring harness and let us know what happens.
 
  #16  
Old 05-25-2013, 11:01 PM
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- argh x 2 !!

- will cut (and not splice) and report !!

.
 
  #17  
Old 05-25-2013, 11:13 PM
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Don't forget to wrap some electrical tape around the cut piece of wire as it will be hot whenever your ignition is on.
 
  #18  
Old 05-26-2013, 12:49 AM
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- solenoid kick is very loud now.

- but still hesitates (occasionally) to turn over.

- i took out the solenoid (removed the cover with the three bolts). The copper ring is very pitted , and so is the two half-circles (the starter motor's circuit is completed when the copper ring is driven forward and kisses the two half circles). I filed them (as best I could) clean. Starts better now.

- as for the (occasional) hesitation .. maybe will ride it for a while and see what happens.

- thanks for the help fellas ! Much appreciated (esp TexasHC).

- will report more as this thing progresses.

.
 
  #19  
Old 05-27-2013, 11:28 PM
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- want to rebuild the solenoid with that kit :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STARTER-SOLE...769a23&vxp=mtr

.

- possible to do in-situ ?

- its alot of work to remove the starter !!

.

- the "occasional" hesitation during starts is getting better though. Will keep an eye on it and report.

.
 
  #20  
Old 06-01-2013, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Run a fused wire (20 amp) from your positive post on your battery to pin 30 on your starter relay.

On your bike you don't have to add the extra relay.
Does anyone have a picture of that? I'm more of "see it" type of guy than a 'read it". I looked at the relay mine has a red wire with black stripe do I pull that out of the #30 relay and replace it with that wire?

My 98 fxdwg is clicking so I cleaned the copper washer and contacts in the solenoid.
 


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