Just make sure you're measuring/jumpering from the positive side of the coil and not the ignition side. If you jumpered to the ignition side, you might have blown your ignition module.

 

The Doc is right!! Seen that done too!!!
John

 

thanks guys im staying calm just takin it one day at a time no rush i wanna fix it right. i had set the timing last week and tried to start but no luck (no spark) but that wasnt with the +jumpered to the coil. the backfiring only occured when i had ran a wire direct from battery to coil but that was also before i set the timing. the timing mark i used was http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/i...n_figure_1.gif late style front cylinder advance mark (the dot), is that correct or should i set to TDC? my plan for today is to run a jumper from ignition switch + to center post (+ on coil) set timing and try to fire, i gotta get some sleep first so any ideas please let me know cause ill log in before i go out to the garage. thanks again.

 

Make sure to remove the white power wire before you jump it. That will rule out shorts!
John

 

WHOOOO, well i ran a wire from the ignition switch to the coil and she fired up and stayed running. the problem i found was that when i went to turn it off using the kill switch it did nothing so i had to shut the bike off by turning off the ign switch. is that because the kill swtich is bad or because i jumped the wire which prob bypassed the kill switch. i rechecked the voltage from thejumped wire and it read 11.7 and that basically the same voltage as the original +wire, so ould this mean the issue is in my handlebar switch? if so why does the switch (when hooked up normally) keep the bike from cranking when kill switch is in run position, if not in run position the bike will not crank when hitting the start button (like it supposed to). either way i know my coil and module are good, im sure i could ride the bike with it jumped but i would like to be able to shut it off using the kill switch vs. just turning the ign switch off. were getting there.

 

Jumping can bypass the kill switch.

 

so is it ok to run it like that without the use of the kill switch? ive heard that using the ign switch vs. the kill switch can damage the stator and or charging system, i also noticed my brake light is staying on with no change when brake applied is that related to the jumper wire?

 

BS on the ign switch vs kill switch scenario, someone told you porkies.....disconnecting the battery while its running can do bad things but usually only to the module and the regulator. Very hard to kill a stator....unless its an 06 Twin Cam in which case it will destroy the stator all by itself ;-)

Brake light staying on may be bad alignment between the switch block and the brake lever perch.

 

ok well im happy she is running well again, i ordered a new handlebar switch so hopefully that cures it. i hope it fixes the brake light issue as well but ill cross that bridge when i get there, found my fork seals are leaking so i just pulled the forks and ordered the seals. i wanna thank everybody for there help in getting this thing figured out, i couldnt have done it without you, again i would like to thank dr.hess, miacycles, texashillcountry, schex3x, 92fatty, nickvango, ridemyevo, ripsaw, kushman, yankeedog, gsxrboy96 and everyone else who gave me the insight and knowledge to fix this without going to a shop i cant thank you enough. donation on its way to this forum thanks again.

 

The power wire to the handlebar kill switch also powers the front brake light switch and the starter switch. Check the bushings in the front fork for wear before you change the seals.

John