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Evo shuts down after 20 miles

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  #121  
Old 05-24-2013, 07:37 AM
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Have you looked under the side panel for the OEM ECM a lot of guys leave them in when they install the Crane.
The SE ECM is not mounted under the nose cone but is not adjustable, it will give you a higher rev limit and a few more maps.
You also might want to look at intake leaks again a 48 slow seems a little big for your mods IMHO.
Be sure to check all the dip switches on the new crane with the web site if they are not correct it might not start.
Don't give up and remember to always start with the easy and cheap I.e. petcock, gas cap, ground wires etc. these bikes are not hard they just have a personality
 

Last edited by Kushman; 05-24-2013 at 08:06 AM.
  #122  
Old 05-24-2013, 09:46 AM
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Ok I just read from back from page 1 to page 13 and I'm just going to throw some thoughts out here...
Things you've verified so far , you got descent spark, you got fuel, your charging checked out.
So...

Ok you got spark at the plugs,so good chance coil is ok but did you try your buddies?
Did you Check compression ?
Did you change all the circuit breakers? especially those that apply to ignition?
Go over this crane setup start to finish and tell us how the dials are set and if you have tack and voes connected up http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/ins...s/90003200.pdf I read a Note on the PDF about a tilt sensor which I beleive you said your bike is a 96, does this apply to your bike?
When I installed the Ultima programmable I left the stock module connected on the bike and I carry the stock pickup in my tool bag, check your bike to see if its still on yours.
If you've tried 2 differnt cranes and bike still won't start but it did run not long ago I'm starting to think the problem is in your timing,, perhaps the cup tab spun or key on the pinion sheared. If wiring on the crane checks out ok with your fine tooth comb then I would be pulling the cam cover to check that the keyway located on the pinion shaft to pinion gear is not sheared. If its broke or sheared it will still be in the key way but sheared off meaning your timing will be way out of wack. Best way to check this is to pull the cam cover and you will want to loosen off the adjustable pushrods if you have them and hopefully you do and hopefully they are quick installs or you will be removing the gas tank to pull the rockers to pull the pushrods. Once pushrods are removed you can remove cam cover and cam and check thinks out. BUt first go over these other things first so we can get a fresh update of where your at.
 
  #123  
Old 05-24-2013, 12:43 PM
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ok RIDEMYEVO thanks for your help, i have fuel i have spark and my coil reads 3.8 ohms (stock hd dual fire coil) so i didnt try my buddies, compression is good, the only circuit breakers ive changed and checked are the four under the dash and they checked out fine (per volt meter), my ign setup is like this-stock coil no voes no tach crane hi4 8-1100 settings on module are "elec start" and "all oe points" (these are the settings the bike ran on before having the issues) module has power, engine cranks, not sure about tilt sensor but i will locate and check today to rule that out, ill let you know.
 
  #124  
Old 05-24-2013, 01:46 PM
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You must have a single fire coil in there, not the stock coil, you have three terminals correct?
It wont work with a dual fire coil, unless you have two and running dual plug setup.
The black wire is the front cyl primary wire (not a ground), the white is the rear, red is power, it grounds through the base.

To eliminate any possible voltage drop to the coil, temporarily hook a jumper wire from the battery(+) post to the center (+) terminal on the coil.

I think without the voes connected, it should be on race, but that should not stop it from running.

Did you static time it when installed?
Have the black and white on the coil going to the correct cyl's?

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/d..._hi4_race2.pdf
 

Last edited by Schex; 05-24-2013 at 01:52 PM.
  #125  
Old 05-24-2013, 03:37 PM
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LOL I was just thinking "HEY MAYBE I NEED A SINGLE FIRE COIL TO MAKE IT WORK WITH YOUR MODULE" im gonna pick one up this week and try again.
 
  #126  
Old 05-24-2013, 03:38 PM
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  #127  
Old 07-08-2013, 03:50 AM
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ok guys well sorry for the late response i had some family troubles to handle, anyways the ignition module was no good so i bought a complete ignition kit, i got the ultima ign kit with module, coil, and wires and i changed the plugs as well, i also changed the fuel filter and replaced the fuel lines (even the transfer lines between the tanks),drained all the fuel and put fresh 91 octane and it fired up instantly, i adjusted the timing and the carb/idle, i have it set in single fire mode, happy to say the bike WAS running perfect, ive put just over 200miles on it with no problems. now heres comes an issue, as i was leaving home to go to work the bike started just fine but i didnt have alot of time to let it warm up so i let it run for about five minutes and let it idle down the road through my neighborhood and i got about three blocks down and the bike stalled on me, i popped the clutch to try and bump start it but it didnt fire, i didnt try again because im not sure about the problems with doing that on a belt drive unit vs. a chain drive, i tried to crank it after stopped but no luck in starting, it cranks just fine but no fire, so i pushed it home and let it sit till after work. got home and tried to start it but no fire just crank, i checked fuel delivery and all is well, i then checked fire but got no spark (at the plug using doc's method), checked voltage at battery and i have 13.4v also checked voltage at coil and im at 4.6v, checked the power wire from ignition and its at 4.6v (should it be 12v??) pulled the timing cover and noticed the light on the module was not on. so my question now is did i throw the timing off when i tried to bump start it or did this ignition module take a **** on me, it was a nice 200+ miles whle it lasted, i cant thank you guys enough, we got it it running before and im sure we can do it again without going to the dealer thanks again everyone.
 
  #128  
Old 07-08-2013, 08:56 AM
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Bump starting it won't hurt anything. Sounds like you fried the module or the wiring connecting it all together is bad. See if there is a troubleshooting guide for that module from the manufacturer.
 
  #129  
Old 07-08-2013, 09:55 AM
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thanks doc i cant find anything on the web for troubleshooting but I remember seeing some in the instructions i recieved with the kit, ill check in an hour or so when i get home. just bummed cause it was running so nice...this too shall pass.
 
  #130  
Old 07-08-2013, 07:14 PM
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ok so i dont have a troubleshooting guide the one i saw was from the crane ign, so i played with it a little and re tested voltage. since im running the single fire coil (3 terminals) i tested the voltage at the battery and its over 13v and i tested the white ignition wire that runs to the coil+, with the wire disconnected from the coil it shows the same as the battery but when connected to the coil it only shows 4.6v, so figuring i needed 12v to the coil i ran a jumper from the battery to the coil and (now having 12v at coil) i checked the led on the ognition module and it illuminated so i tried to start the bike, i got some seriously loud backfire through the exhaust (like a potato gun) by then the battery was getting low from cranking so i put it on the charger. give me some ideas as to what to check next cause im lost, anyone who lives in southern california is welcome to come by and lend a hand lol, thanks again guys.
 


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