I guess it might just be differences in bike models or maybe the way your particular bike is wired. If it works for you, great. I know on mine if I did that, the horn, dash lights and brake lights would all be active with the ignition off.

Adding the relay like I initially described is the most universal to all bikes no matter what model or year. It will work on anything without causing more problems.

 

It might help to know there are 2 different types of automotive relays. The standard type and the switched type. The standard type is also called fog light style relays. When current flows through 85/86, it allows current to flow from 30 to BOTH 87 tabs. The switched type allows current to flow from 30 to 87a unless current flows through 85/86, then it switches the current from flowing in 30/out 87a to in 30/out 87. This is the type I have for the original start relay. If I were to disconnect 30 and connect 30 directly to the battery positive, tab 87a become energized all the time unless I push the start button, which then activates the relay, switching current to flow out 87 until I release the start button; then it goes back to 87a.

 

I grant you that adding a relay will work fine. The problem I had with adding a relay is that I don't have a good place to put one. It would have to have been mounted somewhere on the swing arm. I didn't really want to put one there.

Dan once again thank you for the solution to my problem.

 

Isn`t 30 a hot lead already, it is connected to the main circuit breaker?

 

I did some more digging and figured out: WE ARE BOTH RIGHT!

Check out this wiring diagram:


The FLSTC doesn't use tab 87a at all, so your way of wiring it up works just like you say. You actually probably didn't have to remove/tape off your connector from 30, you could have probably just added the 20amp fused wire together with the original one giving it a parallel feed. I was looking at the diagrams for the FLT, FXR, and FLH. That's where the confusion came from.

Good shortcut, Dan! It wont work on bikes that use a switched "87a" type relay, but for ones that use a standard relay or don't use the middle "87a" tab, it will work great.

 

Depends on the model of bike. On FLT, FXR and FLH, 30 is energized from the ignition switch which get's it's feed from the main circuit breaker which is fed from the battery or stator/rotor. Several feet of small gauge wire and several connectors in between.

 

Gotcha, makes sense now. Looking at the wiring diagrams I have here, I`m seeing early Softails get the power from the main circuit breaker (always hot) and Wide Glides look to be getting the power for 30 at the battery lead on the solenoid.

So the relay on the dressers apparently are set up to stop power to the headlights (87a) while the starter is energized. And a switched supply is the only way for that to work.

Good thread.

 

Exactly. Adding the relay either the way I did or the way Dr. Hess came up with works with the dressers while older Soft tails and Wide Glides apparently can get away with a heavier gauge fused wire feeding the 30 tab directly on the original relay. They might also benefit from replacing the wire from 87 to the solenoid with a larger gauge and fresh connectors as well.

 

Doing more digging...

Apparently 1989-1993 FLHS, 87-94 FXLR, 86-94 FXR, 86-92 FXRS/con/sp, 95-98 FLHR, FLHR-I, 1999 FXR2 and FXR3 models are similar to Soft Tails. You could just hook up a heavier gauge, fused wire from battery positive directly to the original relay's "30 tab.

86 FXRD, 86-98 FLHTC, Ultra, I, FLTC/ultra, I, 86-92 FXRT, 95 FLHT, models use the switched type relay to kill the lights while starting, they would require the additional relay.

 

I am getting ready to do the conversion with second relay on mine today. I just wanted to repost to state I really wish this should be made into a sticky.