I only ever knew EVO

 

Evo fix NEXT

I hope. Not we fix them we concord

 

A much simpler method would be to keep the existing relay, just feed it directly from the battery or the post on the starter, instead of the current setup, which gets power supplied through a zillion connectors and a mile of wiring...

 

I am trying to figure out why this won't work but for the life of me I can't think of one.

Your solution is both simple and elegant.

I have been wondering where I would put the second relay. I don't have side panels or any other good place to put one.

Thank you for this very simple solution.

 

I have to say this is a great Idea. But as Dan89FLSTC said I have to ask why would the second relay be needed if you simple ran a 14 gage wire from the battery to #30 on the original relay with a 20A inline fuse. The only reason I can think of would be that there would be less voltage drop across two small contacts in two relays feeding the starter solenoid than with one or will that make that much of a difference.

In my case I have an S&S engine with the automatic compression releases. S&S recommends to simply tap into the wire that feeds the starter solenoid for power to the automatic compression releases. Now the compression releases are two 3 OHM coils that have power going to them, when you press the handlebar switch and the other lead from the compression releases are grounded. In this way the automatic compression releases are only activated as long as you hold in the starter button. This is on an older dresser and you won't believe the intermittent problem I encountered. Once and a while when I released the starter button there would be just enough feed back from ground through the two 3 OHM compression release coils to the starter solenoid to hold the starter solenoid in. The started would not disengage with out a good rap or pulling the fuse on the compression releases (that would disconnect the connection through the coils to ground) and allows the spring to disengage it. It drove me crazy. Check OHMs on both compression releases, resistance to ground, and S&S technical support had no answers. I added a second relay to separately feed the compression releases and the problem was solved.

In my first attachment is a diagram of the way S&S say's to wire the compression releases and the second attachment is the way I wired it with the second relay.

I have cut the jumper so I can start my bike with the headlight off but even with the automatic compression releases it can be a little hard starting as I had the heads ported, milled, and compression raised along with a 2 KW starter. I know the primary side of each relay only draws about 0.3 AMP but I would be now adding a third relay.

That is why I ask how much difference the second starter relay really makes VS adding the wire directly from the battery to #30 of the existing relay. - That's a great simple idea.

Some one may have the answer.

 

Well before someone resounds I took a look at the wiring diagram in my service manual and fingered it out. I should have thought of it before I posted the question but if I power the original starter relay terminal #30 off the battery the middle terminal #87a, on the starter relay, will always have power to my circuit breakers regardless of turning off my ignition switch. Another relay is the answer. I’m learning new things every day.

 

As a couple people already figured out, this would keep your bike powered up all the time regardless of the position of your ignition switch.

 

Yep, answered your own question.

 

I had the same problem with my 94 FLHTCU. I found out that my radio was part of the problem. Since there always is a draw on the battery, clock & stations. I disconnnect the radio and the no drop in volts. With connected a slow constant drop. Put a heavier wire from the battery to an on/off switch then to radio. I just turn the switch off when parked. With that cannot save radio stations. Also installed a push button starter on the end of the starter just in case. I also noticed that if I hold the starter button down on the handle bar it will start.

 

Yep, there are all sorts of little things that can add up to helping a little. If holding in the start button would eventually turn over the engine, sounds like the plunger in your solenoid needs cleaned/greased or you would greatly benefit from the addition of the second relay like outlined in the first post. Since I added the second relay, I haven't gotten a single click yet. Even with a battery run down from playing the radio it will still crank over first push.

In fact, is there ANYONE out there that has added the second relay that has gotten a dreaded click since? (I specifically mean without other electrical problems like a bad battery, etc.)