starting issues
#21
#25
Here is a break down.
86==Ground
87 == Starter solenoid
85==Handle bar switches
30==ignition switch
From what you have told me you have all the right voltages in all the right places on the starter relay.
I'm assuming you cleaned the connectors on the relay and made sure the female connectors were crimped enough to make a good connection on the relay.
Next step is to pull the starter relay and replace it.
Just take the one you have into an auto parts store and they can match it up. It is a very common relay.
#26
ok i placed all the wires in the correct locations. now im going to ask for the hell of it. when i got this bike it had no key he lost it. but the ignition turns and all the lights and everything comes on. he said it started before with no issues. but would not having a key cause issues? or is it just flat out my relay? and what about running a wire from the battery to the 30 pin for extra voltage like someone mentioned earlier.
#27
ok i placed all the wires in the correct locations. now im going to ask for the hell of it. when i got this bike it had no key he lost it. but the ignition turns and all the lights and everything comes on. he said it started before with no issues. but would not having a key cause issues? or is it just flat out my relay? and what about running a wire from the battery to the 30 pin for extra voltage like someone mentioned earlier.
The reason to run a jumper wire to pin 30 is to by-pass the wiring harness which over time develops corrosion at all junctions but you are getting your full battery power at pin 30 so this is not your problem. You can run a jumper if you feel like it but it won't help in your case.
FYI the dreaded click is when your starter bendix hits the ring gear on your clutch hub but doesn't have enough voltage to turn it.
#28
I've had my 89 FLTC for 22 years & also experienced the dreaded click. 1st time was on vacation, 3rd day into an 8 day run in the Smokys. Got it to an Indy & we ended up drilling a hole in the solenoid cover. So every time I needed to start it. I used a drift to push in the solenoid to start it. After I got home I began to check all connections, replaced relays & battery cables. I also had the stater rebuilt. It lasted for about 6 months & the click came back. So I bought a new starter & the problem was still there.
This is what I did to solve the problem! A friend that runs an Indy shop advised me to add a 88 ford tempo solenoid & I did. I had to rewire the battery cables thru the new solenoid, then to the starter solenoid. I had to also run wires from the original relay to the new solenoid to make it work.
No more dreaded click! After rewiring, everything works the same, but I can no longer push in the solenoid to start the bike, as the power has to go thru the 1st solenoid to activate the starter solenoid, now.
If anyone is interested in adding this solenoid I can post exactly what needs to be done. You do need to have room to mount the new solenoid. I mounted mine under the seat.
I've been running the setup for about 4 years now & the dreaded click is no more!
This is what I did to solve the problem! A friend that runs an Indy shop advised me to add a 88 ford tempo solenoid & I did. I had to rewire the battery cables thru the new solenoid, then to the starter solenoid. I had to also run wires from the original relay to the new solenoid to make it work.
No more dreaded click! After rewiring, everything works the same, but I can no longer push in the solenoid to start the bike, as the power has to go thru the 1st solenoid to activate the starter solenoid, now.
If anyone is interested in adding this solenoid I can post exactly what needs to be done. You do need to have room to mount the new solenoid. I mounted mine under the seat.
I've been running the setup for about 4 years now & the dreaded click is no more!
#30