Completed the install of a new ev27, new full complement bearing, and Andrews quickie install adjustable pushrods. I have mentioned before in other threads that the gear problem which is not well known presented itself in my motor because I have green dot gears. No problem had the dealer install my old cam gear on the new cam. Next was the shim which the dealer nor anyone else close carries. I have a .055 installed now which gets me to under .018 of the desired cam gear end play. Once installed I noticed that the last cam lobe was colliding with the inter housing boss under the newly installed bearing. I shaved very little with mini-grinder, careful to insure that all debris exited the engine before I put her back together. Oh, also install new ignition module(sensor is the actual part name) and was wondering if I placed the new stock ignition module in the same position as the replaced stock ignition would I need further work? That is the remaining problem. She started reluctantly and with a few kicks, backfires and awfully rough running. It looks as if the motor is battling itself in the frame. Pulled the plugs and the rear plug had black soot on it which was not on it prior to the first start. I also wonder if when the previous ignition module caused a loud noise in the engine if maybe a valve is bent and this is what is causing the rough running.

The adjustable pushrods caused some concern at first because when making the four rounds after the rods have no slack in them seemed really
tight. However on a suggestion of other people on this forum and took each valve down to the end and backed off to .21 inches and set the locking nut.

If I have done something wrong here please let me know. If you have a suggestion as to how to determine what is causing the rough running please let me know.

 

Just took the cam cover off and the gear alignments are still good but I noticed some definite extra wear on the cam gear as well as the pinion gear. They looked like deeper wear patterns and actually a gouge on one of the cam gear teeth. I think I will redo the pushrod installment by looking at the lobes of the cam and making sure that I take out adjustments on the one which is at its lowest point on the cam and then going to the next in that cylinder after the lifter has bleed down.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Pinetop

 

Are you talking about the thrust washer, the one with the tab on it that goes up against the bearing? I had to get one from an Indy, HD has disccontinued it and only sells the round one from the later years.

Ds

 

If you installed new lifters you have to run it and re-adjust as the new lifters won't be pressurised at first.

 

Alright I did as miacycles said and readjusted my pushrods and the motor quieted down considerably, however it appears that I am only running on one cylinder and that one keeps backfiring. I pulled the plugs to see what was up and the rear cylinder is coated with soot so thick you can barely see the metal. The front one had fuel on it. I used the lifters to set the pushrods by rolling the engine to the point where the lifters sat on the opposite side of the cam lobe of its high point. I examined the cam well and did not see any part of the cam travel portion for the lifter which had any lower appearance so that is where I set the pushrods by backing off until they were loose enough to move around the lifter top and then tightened to the point that they could be turned but not moved. I then marked them with a marker and turned them out four entire revolutions and then set the nut. Like I said the motor was much quieter and ran somewhat better but one cylinder was not working. I rode it around the block and it had little power and backfired often to the point that I thought it best to put her up for the night.

Any suggestions? After making two blocks don't you think the lifters have had enough work to prime themselves and work properly? I warmed the bike up both times before taking her on the block. I heard no exceptional noises from the engine but noticed the definite difference in the way the motor sounded compared to old stock cam.

I changed to new and properly gauged plugs and checked the Vois system and found no un-plugged hose or anything unusual except the rubber 90 that attaches the enricher cable to the carburetor has a hole at the top of the connection with the carburetor.


At this point I do not know what else to look for. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

How much do they need to run?

Pinetop

 

No, after I installed the cam I bolted the cover on and then measured the end play for the cam. Between the end of the cam where the lobs are not where the cam enters the bearing and the washer you discussed. I had a .072 gap. I had no other shim but a .055 given to me by a local indy and that is where I am on that issue. Surprisingly she started rather easily.

 

Sounds to me like you have to adjust the ignition plate. You can buy shims online for cheap ,check ebay or ronnies

 

Do a compression test at least, a leak down if the numbers vary much. You may have bent a valve. Timing may be off, but shouldn't account for the plug color difference. Get back to us with the numbers.
John

 

Possibly intake seals when you having a sooty plug with rough running.

Are you needing to keep the choke on partially to have it run at speed?

Do you know how to check for an intake leak?

At least rule it out before you do anything drastic like tear into it again.