3 miles should pump up the lifters. Running on one could mean a badly seating valve or timing. In cases lke this you have to make sure that everything is where it should be before diagnosing.

Do this:

Check timing (strobe)

Check float level in carby

New plugs

Readjust pushrods as per the instructions they came with

Then tell us what happens :-)

 

Compression check will let you know if your lifters are adjusted within the ballpark, a valve has been bent or have a lifter that has collapsed from overtightening a pushrod. The total travel of the lifters is supposed to be @ that .210" and they should be preloaded in the middle of that. If the compression doesn't come out right, carefully adjust the lifters again even if you have to buy a buddy that has more experience a beer to do it for you this time.
Too late now, but I kinda go against the normal by not soaking the lifters in oil, just a coating on the outside. That way, I don't have to worry about waiting on them to bleed off as I move along. I pump them up by pulling the plugs, put tranny in second gear, roll the rear tire over by hand a fer times to make sure everything turns OK. Then I put it back in neutral and crank the engine over with the starter for about 30 seconds in 10 second bursts.

 

Ok, Spanners did everything you instructed and I am on my was back from parts store to rent compression test equipment. Is there a way to eliminate the pushrod as a cause of the compression let down. I ask this because now that I know I have fuel and fire the compression is the only issue left. Is there some way to determine which is the cause, the pushrod, lifter compressed to much or a faulty valve other than taking the top off and observing the valve?

Pinetop

 

Before I started this project the front cylinder was not firing which started after the plug between regulator and stator rattled loose and all the power was drained from the battery and the engine had a noisy failure and stopped running with a bang. I am thinking now that that event is the cause of the cylinder not firing. Is there a way to keep the plug from rattling loose? The dealer says you cannot purchase a new plug male or female end without buying a stator or regulator. This is the second time this has occurred and now with damage to the bike occurring I want to eliminate this problem. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

Pinetop

 

They sell a hold down bracket for that, most Indy shops carry them. It bolts to the front case bolt and keeps constant pressure on the stator regulator plug..

 

If the comp test is bad you can back off the pushrods until they only just open the valves and see if comp comes back up.

This is why I don't like adjustables.......just one more Ethiopian in the fuel supply.....with stock ones you just put it all back together and it works....I have said it a lot and will say it again...H-D know what they are doing, you shouldn't mess with the stock motor if you aren't a capable wrench because some aftermarket systems take away the idiot-proofing that is a major plus point on Harleys...they don't require a lot of special maintenance skills. ( I don't think you are an idiot by the way)

I have had a good amount of feedback from people who I have been able to help, they think I know my way around a Harley......yet my bikes are not far from stock, just a few longevity or easy maintenace upgrades...folks need to think about that :-)

 

are you sure you have a hot battery and the bike is charging? sounds like you may have more mech. problems,as said before maybe stuck valve?

 

When you adjusted valves did you let lifters bleed down before rotating to next adjustment? May crash a valve into piston. .018 is a little large. I like .010 to .015. Lobe clearance is not uncommon. Do compression test

 

Wow, sounds like this simple upgrade, has taken a hard left hand turn.........
Scott

 

Did the compression test and definitely no compression whatsoever in the front cylinder. Called the Evo guy at the dealer ship and he said to put compressed air in the spark plug hole and lisen for leaks from the valves after removing pushrods. Well that was it. No leaks so it was the pushrods all along. I get to worked up is things do not work out immediately. He also suggested going to three turns instead of the four suggested. I did so and she started right up and ran like her pants were on fire. I am very pleased. Thanks to all here because no telling what type of panics I would be in if not for this forum. I do know now that what some manufacturers call no slack in pushrods varied from what I thought it was. All in all things a very good. I like to walk up to the bike and have it start with the first bump of the button.

I have the little guard on the plug but it does not keep constant pressure. I will take it off and bend it back to the position where it keeps pressure. I also moved the male portion of the plug prongs out a little to make it snap before coming out of the female plug. Hopefully this will do it.

The only problem remaining is the serious vibration since I installed the new drive belt. It is not too tight but it may be too loose.
Would that cause the vibration I am feeling (seems to be right under the seat or mid bike location).

Again thanks everyone and I should always keep it simple stupid.

Pinetop

Ag