Don't know if it's an issue on a 95 FLHTC, but on my 93 Electra Glide FLHS, there are a few spacers that tend to fall out and roll around the garage floor, when you remove the axle. They also need to be re-installed in the correct position. IIRC, I usually remove both the mufflers, so the axle is easier to remove/install and alignment adjusted. Also a bit easier to get the torque wrench in on the nut. I never had much difficulty with the rear brake, but I can see how that might be a real pisser.

This is a good time to repack the bearings (if the 95 has bearings that need packing). Somewhere along the line, I think The MoCo switched to sealed bearings. I could be wrong, but someone will know for certain when that happened.

 

RE: The brake caliber.

Go to Home Depot and purchase a pack of door/window shims. (app. $1.25) The minute the brake rotor clears the brake insert two shims from opposite directions and they will hold the pucks in the open direction, actually you can drive them all the way in until the pucks are completely seated in the calibers. Remember the brake will be non-existent until you pump them back up with the brake lever.

Remove shims just before installing the wheel/tire/rotor assembly.

The wood won't damage the pucks like a screw driver or other metal object would do.

 

I have just fitted a Deuce rear wheel to my Glide and found I have to fit the wheel in place, then install pulley and rotor before fitting the axle etc and torquing everything up.

For a stock bike however I found it necessary to jack the bike up quite a bit, to create room to get the wheel out of the bike.

 

Just an update, got the wheel out, that sucked a lot worse than I thought it was going too. The belt gave me a lot of troubles or maybe it was just that I was trying to do that while watching my three kids play...haha. Got it all cleaned up. Bearings feel good, now just got to get the tire changed and bck in I go, hoping it will go a lot smoother.

The axle bolt I would assume gets lubed up with some grease right. Another thing, does anyone know if the longer spacer tapered end goes in towards or away from inner spacer before the bearing. It's the one on the pully side. Probably shows it in the manual.

 

Tapered end goes toward the bearing. You can use wheel bearing grease on the axle, but anti seize is better (a little goes a long way). Regarding the belt, once you drop the wheel roll it forward a bit, and the belt should come right off. Do not turn the axle adjusters, and your wheel should line right up when you get it back on.