All though its been a while for setting points it should actually be quite straight forward if you can find out when the points are suppose to start to open and set the proper maximum gap which is basicly set on the highest part of the cam lobe. On the old british bikes what we use to do was find tdc which for you would be the crank straight line scribe and what I use to do for the brits anyway was stick a popsicle stick in the tdc front piston and on the stick I had a pen mark that was 7/16" from the end so I would croll the crank back so the line was even with the spark plug lip thus allowing the points to break at 7/16 before tdc. Perhaps someone with chime in and give you a hand to set up the points or google setting up points on a harley. I think your going in the right direction here.

 

This may help for sporster but there may be some similaritiesthere that can help you or some one may see my dumb founded effort in trying to help you and actually give you some good solid information. GRIN

 

Thank you very much ride my evo. I really appreciate it. set it all up now w the help of a local builder down the block.

Heres the new status....

Checked compression-perfect
took a camera to cylinder head and intake-all good normal wear
Set points and have spark at point contact as well as plugs- good
new fuel
new plugs
new coil
new point system
new batt


have spark compression fuel etc...... everything... but still will not start not even with a spray of ether.

many people/bike builders/professional mechanics, all are stumped...WTF..

Matt

 

If you have spark, fuel and compression and the bike isn't backfiring, etc. Then it should run. You are missing something, with over 50 years of working on engines, yours should start. 110 compression tells us the valves are close, you say you have fuel and used starting fluid. You also state you have spark, so there is no reason for it to not run. The timing should be close as you don't have any backfiring, even with the starting fluid. I think there is something you are missing or not telling us. Perhaps the coil is weak and and will spark at atmosphere and not at compression?????
John

 

I have seen no spark under compression with a bad condenser. It amplifies the spark by stopping coil rebound and should not be overlooked.

 

Are the plugs wet or dry when you pull them after trying to start it?

 

Plug wires? That is about the only thing left. Like said above, even though you have spark at the plugs, they may not be firing under compression.

 

Replaced the plug wires with the new coil. Really, I know it dosnt seem right, but that is what's happening... that's why were all baffled over here.. The spark with compression issue is a lead, but with a new coil it shouldn't be an issue..
Matt

 

Here's a thought...what if the crank or cam gear has moved on the shaft.......but if it has static timed to the correct crank marks it wouldn't be the issue.....there is no real reason why this won't start........however, if the am has moved in the gear it would time right but not run.....have you checkd that the valves open a shut when they should? Ignore cam pinion marks, were talking are both valves shut at TDC on the comp stroke? Its an easy one to miss.

 

Loc nuts on push rods loose?