Tranny removal tips?
#31
Here\s the update, had tranny back in again with the old swingarm , I had to go find a die to chase the threads on the shaft ( had to pull pivot shaft again ) good threads and new nut in hand , old caliper back on, damn no brakefluid , got brakefluid and clear hose for bleeding, looking good inner primary back on, guess I better torque tranny to engine , and wouldn't you know it I had to use my beam 3/8 torque wrench because of lack of room for 34lbs torque or so an wack snapped a bolt.
Here we go again tranny back out and go buy some spiral easy outsand go see buddy with the parts for a couple "NEW" bolts. So tranny is in and primary is on and just about time for work again.
So I got a question as I move forward at a snails pace, now that engine to primary is tight and tranny to primary is tight and engine to tranny is tight all in that order for line up sake and not wanting to break anything, like thats going to happen right? hah had you on the edge there.
So to the question I next need to tighten swingarm shaft axle and put holders back to steady the axle then set the tension/deflection on the belt what is the best and yet easiest ways to set the belt up? I do have clymer manual but I'm sure there's a sure fire way of setting the rear wheel up that is not so full of jargon.Generally I just pull the wheel axle through and pull belt off to remove wheel and do reverse o install but obviously I have more detailed work to do here to get it right. Can I just use a vernier caliper and measure the adjuster threads?
Here we go again tranny back out and go buy some spiral easy outsand go see buddy with the parts for a couple "NEW" bolts. So tranny is in and primary is on and just about time for work again.
So I got a question as I move forward at a snails pace, now that engine to primary is tight and tranny to primary is tight and engine to tranny is tight all in that order for line up sake and not wanting to break anything, like thats going to happen right? hah had you on the edge there.
So to the question I next need to tighten swingarm shaft axle and put holders back to steady the axle then set the tension/deflection on the belt what is the best and yet easiest ways to set the belt up? I do have clymer manual but I'm sure there's a sure fire way of setting the rear wheel up that is not so full of jargon.Generally I just pull the wheel axle through and pull belt off to remove wheel and do reverse o install but obviously I have more detailed work to do here to get it right. Can I just use a vernier caliper and measure the adjuster threads?
Last edited by RidemyEVO; 07-06-2012 at 05:27 PM.
#32
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Bluffton, South Carolina
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Get a piece of welding rod or piano wire. Then bend a 90 Degree bend on one end and go to Lowes, etc and get a very small O-Ring and slide it down the shaft. Now put the bent end in the center of the swing arm pivot and slide the O-Ring out to the center of the axle on one side. Then take the piece over to the other side and see if they are the same. The vernier/adjuster method is OK, but this is more accurate. There are manufacturers that sell a tool to do this too. Hope this helps.
John
John
#33
#35
Thanks Spanners , I got one off one of the maintenance nechanics here at work tonite , he uses it for checking belts on the grinders. And I also got a 2 foot length of 3/16 rod for Johns instructions, and I think the oring off the belt tensioner tool may even fit on it.
#36
I worked on it after the nite shift and got called back to work OT. I did manage to get the rear wheel done and lined up, had a real hard
time lining up the pucks into there pin holes, had to loosen off the pivot shaft and realign the footrest holders with the pin holes etc. wow.
So the rod and oring worked well although I went off the bottom footrest bolt rather than the shaft itself, which I figured
was okay as long as it was the same
Reference point. Manual said to use 10lbs and
5/16-3/8" for tension, which to me seemed a bit tight when I was done. I didnt have anyone to sit on the bike while i was checking tension so with bike standing straight i got a 2x4 and propt it up against the ceiling of garage and
Used a car crank jack off where the seat would be and
Cranked to add tension/weight. I looked at the front pulley belt position while rotating rear wheel and
the left edge of the belt stayed to the left lip of the pulley, is
this correct or should it be in the middle?
time lining up the pucks into there pin holes, had to loosen off the pivot shaft and realign the footrest holders with the pin holes etc. wow.
So the rod and oring worked well although I went off the bottom footrest bolt rather than the shaft itself, which I figured
was okay as long as it was the same
Reference point. Manual said to use 10lbs and
5/16-3/8" for tension, which to me seemed a bit tight when I was done. I didnt have anyone to sit on the bike while i was checking tension so with bike standing straight i got a 2x4 and propt it up against the ceiling of garage and
Used a car crank jack off where the seat would be and
Cranked to add tension/weight. I looked at the front pulley belt position while rotating rear wheel and
the left edge of the belt stayed to the left lip of the pulley, is
this correct or should it be in the middle?
#38
John I did check tension on lower belt in middle but with bike elevated I looked at position of belt on the front pulley and it was riding against the outer lip of pulley, is that the correct position or should it be in the middle of pulley?
#40