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fresh rebuild shit the bed

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Old 06-09-2012, 10:15 AM
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Default fresh rebuild **** the bed

spent the winter (and part of the summer now) tearing down my 87 softail. put a new top end in (bored stock cylinders .20 over and put screaming eagle pistons and rings in, new valves and springs, adjustable push rods ev72 cam and matched springs, dyna 2000 ignition. thing ran like a raped ape for about 100 miles then yesterday i had no throttle. pushed it 3 miles till to a brothers house and loaded it in a truck and hauled it back to the house, started by adust the timing and pushrods out, they slopped a little but not too bad, but got them dead on again and noticed weak spark in the rear cylinder, none in the front. switched the plugs and wires to see if it was one of those causing the problem and had no spark, put the old ones back in and still no spark, my meter is 5000 feet under ground at work, and im on 7 days vacation to get my bike ready for the show next weekend, gonna try putting a different coil on today, if i can come across a meter how do i test the ignition module to see if it fried already?
 
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Old 06-09-2012, 10:21 AM
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Man thats lame, Not sure on testing the module but I would take a good hard look at your power and ground. Check all the connections and switches, sounds like weak coil though. Can you fire the coil with good spark with a jumper wire?
 
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Old 06-09-2012, 11:22 AM
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havent tried, lost it right before dark so i only spent about 40 minutes on it, after resetting timing i just visually check all the wires for a short, got rain today, so im gonna do what i can, but dont have concrete, dont know how long ill sit in the mud
 
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Old 06-09-2012, 05:14 PM
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The only sure test for an ign module is substitution, the tests are always a little vague. You can use any module but you will need to make up an adaptor harness if using a later one....and early Sporty module fits.

Look behind your points cover and check the ignitor cup is still attached to the camshaft....the bolt can break and they can come undone if not tightened properly.

Coil substitution is the best check there too and also check for a chafed wire from the tacho take off on the coil (you might not have a tacho but the wire might still be there)....probably a pink wire, comes from the module to the coil and then off to the tacho.
 
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Old 06-09-2012, 06:41 PM
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When the engine turns over does the red light on the module flash on and off??? If not you have no power. Do you have the VOES and tach hooked up??
 
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Old 06-09-2012, 10:59 PM
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swapped the coil and it fired right up, now to my next problems. falcon adjustable push rods. the lock nut is vibrating loose and push rods are adusting themselves down. anyone ever have this problem?
 
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Old 06-09-2012, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ta2dup
swapped the coil and it fired right up, now to my next problems. falcon adjustable push rods. the lock nut is vibrating loose and push rods are adusting themselves down. anyone ever have this problem?
RED Locktite. That's what comes with the FM adjustable push-rods. Let them setup overnight before starting. Good luck with your bike.
 
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Old 06-10-2012, 02:52 PM
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I just had the same issue with adjustables (crane). I adjusted mine back and snugged em up with no locktite. It's in my head now though and may pop the covers off and put some around the bottom of the lock nut for assurance.
 
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Old 06-10-2012, 03:07 PM
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Boy, I thought it was just me with push rods coming loose. (Andrews). Readjusted them and tightened them even more! No loctite.
 
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Old 06-10-2012, 03:21 PM
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I took my FM adjustables apart after RED lock-titing them & they came apart but it was a little work. After having had taken them apart I would definitely use RED lock-tite again on adjustable push-rods. When the RED lock-tite sets up, you have NO WORRIES of them coming apart if you snugged them up good & tight IMO. Whatever works....
 


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