click jerk
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I'm going to need definate help here, I started it up to see if I can get the symptom to reoccur on a constant occurance and have managed to narrow it down. If I have it running and drop it into first it will do it, if I go back to neutral and drop it into first again it won;t do it. If I go from first where it won't do it up to second and then back to first it will do it.It won't do it in any gear other than first. What its doing it like taking up and looseness putting the gears in the forward pull position and once its in that position having forward motion on it it seems fine, its kinda like a worn u joint on a car when you put it in gear and it makes a clack.
So saying all that I feel confident its something in the gearbox and more than likely having to do with the first gear.
So basicly as I drop it into first and let the clutch out to go it will do it, basicly if I am now in first and it has made the noise it will no longer make the noise.
So any definate direction on this from those familar with these symptoms would be much appreciated.
So saying all that I feel confident its something in the gearbox and more than likely having to do with the first gear.
So basicly as I drop it into first and let the clutch out to go it will do it, basicly if I am now in first and it has made the noise it will no longer make the noise.
So any definate direction on this from those familar with these symptoms would be much appreciated.
Last edited by RidemyEVO; 06-09-2012 at 10:05 AM.
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#8
Stopped in at my buddies after 400 mile ride to take a look at a gear set he had on the bench to get a feel for what's going on when the bike goes into first gear and I think your right near as I can tell it has to be the locking prongs that lock up or something to do with the first gear not lock up tight. Any tips on checkIng the shimming? I'm not going to pretend I know the details of what your talking about although I do know what you mean by selector fork. Perhaps something loosened off.
#9
Not sure if this will help but at least the shift will throw the coorect distance.
The 5 speed box you check the shifter pawl in 3rd gear , make sure the throw is the same at the box pushing down to second but not selecting second and the same to fourth push back till it is about to go in to 4th, the distance at the shifter arm at the box of the travel to 2nd and 4th should be the same adjust at the box the thread and nut towards the rear of the bike from the shifter arm.
I'm not good at explaining stuff someone else might explain it better.
The 5 speed box you check the shifter pawl in 3rd gear , make sure the throw is the same at the box pushing down to second but not selecting second and the same to fourth push back till it is about to go in to 4th, the distance at the shifter arm at the box of the travel to 2nd and 4th should be the same adjust at the box the thread and nut towards the rear of the bike from the shifter arm.
I'm not good at explaining stuff someone else might explain it better.
#10
When you take the lid off the gearbox you will see a grooved drum (selector drum) on the right hand end of this is a circlip and a shim where the drum pivot comes through the mounting and the pivot bearing.The gap behind the shim (between the shim and the mounting) should be 1-4 thou....I have seen these shimmed ***-backwards and it gives issues similar to what you are experiencing.
At the left hand end of the selector drum is a metal claw with a spring. This has to have equal clearance between each tip of the claw and the rollers in the selector drum. It is adjusted by a nut and thread behind the inner primary in the tranny case.
If you take the selector drum out you will see the selector forks and if you take the tranny side cover off and slip out the selector fork rod you can pull the forks and look to see if they are bent or unduly worn at the ends.
Now would be a great time to get a hold of a manual....as it will take too long to explain what to look for without one.
At the left hand end of the selector drum is a metal claw with a spring. This has to have equal clearance between each tip of the claw and the rollers in the selector drum. It is adjusted by a nut and thread behind the inner primary in the tranny case.
If you take the selector drum out you will see the selector forks and if you take the tranny side cover off and slip out the selector fork rod you can pull the forks and look to see if they are bent or unduly worn at the ends.
Now would be a great time to get a hold of a manual....as it will take too long to explain what to look for without one.