click jerk
#61
If it really is growling and obvious you know how to pull it apart, Next time, pull primary cover and remove clutch drum and position chain out of the way. I had my compensator off also. Jack it up and drop the wheel to pull the belt off the wheel pulley and push the belt forward and position it so it is off front drive pulley. Now you can turn input shaft thru shifting up thru the gears and you will be able to get a fill of how all the bearings fill. You can also see and inspect the inner primary bearing. With the clutch drum off and apart you can inspect the large bearing in the clutch hub. You may have the small needle bearings going in the transmission output shaft but if you do above you will be able to fill them. You cannot fill them with belt or primary chain hooked up.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 07-03-2012 at 06:54 PM.
#62
Doesn't matter which way round the bearing is, it won;t make any difference.
If adjusting selector has made a difference I would try adjusting it further in that direction to see if it gets even better.
Selector looks fine but I would like to see a pic of the shimmed/clipped and of the selector drum.
If adjusting selector has made a difference I would try adjusting it further in that direction to see if it gets even better.
Selector looks fine but I would like to see a pic of the shimmed/clipped and of the selector drum.
#63
Ripshaw I have no problem pulling things apart
Ok I pulled the outer cover off gear box to check shifter forks and found that theone in the middle had some real wear on the top of its arch. I then pulled the trap door to do an inspection. Basicly the only real wear was on one gear but no broken teeth or dogs and the bearing in the case for countershaft was ok as was the trap door bearings, all snap rings were in place as well as the roller bearing that the gears ride on. Also inspected shifter mechanism and appeared normal although the part that floatson the 3 ***** seemed a bit loose but I guess thats the way it is when there's no tension against it. So I found my old shifter forks that had HD stamped on them, these were all after market, I'll replace the centre one with one of my spares, spares are actually in excellent condition. Anyone have any ideas for anything else for me to look for or have any idea why the centre fork went the way it did, almost burnt like overheated?By the way I checked the gear the burnt fork rides in and it was fine as well as the old fork and the fork I'm going to put in both have good clearance on both side.
Gear worn a bit , gear is off countershaft I think second one in from trap door
The bad fork both sides
Ok I pulled the outer cover off gear box to check shifter forks and found that theone in the middle had some real wear on the top of its arch. I then pulled the trap door to do an inspection. Basicly the only real wear was on one gear but no broken teeth or dogs and the bearing in the case for countershaft was ok as was the trap door bearings, all snap rings were in place as well as the roller bearing that the gears ride on. Also inspected shifter mechanism and appeared normal although the part that floatson the 3 ***** seemed a bit loose but I guess thats the way it is when there's no tension against it. So I found my old shifter forks that had HD stamped on them, these were all after market, I'll replace the centre one with one of my spares, spares are actually in excellent condition. Anyone have any ideas for anything else for me to look for or have any idea why the centre fork went the way it did, almost burnt like overheated?By the way I checked the gear the burnt fork rides in and it was fine as well as the old fork and the fork I'm going to put in both have good clearance on both side.
Gear worn a bit , gear is off countershaft I think second one in from trap door
The bad fork both sides
#64
#69
Well as far as total miles since I gave engine total rebuild is probably 20-40 tousand miles more likely less. No metal shavings more like metal was burnt like if you hold something on the grinder too ling. Since I rebuilt tranny probably 5000 miles.
#70
Well kind of, when I went to reinstall trap door lower left 5/16 allen bolt didn'y take the torq and right away I knew something was wrong, pulled door back off and sure enough a chunk of the case had a crack. I thought I could get a 5.16 helicoil in there but quickly realized when I tried to drill it that there wasn't safely going to be enough meat. I then just through curiosity tried a 1/4 inch helicoil and it spun right in so I managed to get 2 helicoils bottomed out in the hole and one more in the broken out area I laid the red locktight to the helicoils and threaded in a chunk of rod and laif the jbweld over the outer helicoil with threaded rod in tack.not as strong as the 5/16 and in fact found out after the fact that the 1.4 inch is the lower grade stock. This has been cracked for a while because I always had a leak there so really it should hold better then the way it was, cross my fingers.
Tranny cases are aluminum right? I mean I'm thinking nect winter I will pull tranny case and get it welded right and do my belt and rear swing arm bushings. By the way I reset selector spacing and went through all the gears but I'm waiting overnite for jbweld to set before putting oil in it,
Tranny cases are aluminum right? I mean I'm thinking nect winter I will pull tranny case and get it welded right and do my belt and rear swing arm bushings. By the way I reset selector spacing and went through all the gears but I'm waiting overnite for jbweld to set before putting oil in it,