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90 FLTC Engine Removal

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  #41  
Old 05-02-2012 | 07:46 PM
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Ok, any tricks or tips on removing the oil tank? I'm annoyed and taking a break...

The top back corner of the oil tank is tucked under a chrome piece that extends rearward with the right shock bolted to/through it. It doesn't look like the tank can slip out from under it because of how deep the front edge of the tank sticks into the frame. So do I have to unbolt the right shock and whatever else is attached to that piece to get it out of the way of the oil tank?
 

Last edited by D1gger; 05-02-2012 at 08:01 PM.
  #42  
Old 05-02-2012 | 08:52 PM
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Take those three 1/2" bolts out at the corners, take the phillips screw out of the chrome cover above the rear strut and pull the cover off. You shouldn't have to remove the shock. Tank should slide out, unhook hoses and clean it out. Replace hoses, they are cheap. Breath. It's really that easy.
 
  #43  
Old 05-02-2012 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by notlost_nc
Take those three 1/2" bolts out at the corners, take the phillips screw out of the chrome cover above the rear strut and pull the cover off. You shouldn't have to remove the shock. Tank should slide out, unhook hoses and clean it out. Replace hoses, they are cheap. Breath. It's really that easy.
That's correct except that there is also a bolt (1/2 inch head) holding the chrome strut cover on as well. But you do not have to remove the shock.
 
  #44  
Old 05-02-2012 | 09:25 PM
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Bolt 3 holds the tank and the cover.
 
Attached Thumbnails 90 FLTC Engine Removal-oil-tank.jpg  
  #45  
Old 05-02-2012 | 10:08 PM
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Got it. The top rear 1/2" bolt held both the trim and the corner of the tank and there was only 1 phillips head screw securing the rest of it. I seriously thought the shock upper bolt was through that piece, not under a cut-out. Tank is out, flushed several times until the inside is nice and shiny looking. Now it's sitting in front of a fan to air out the remaining kerosene before I slosh some fresh clean oil through it to coat the inside surfaces well.

My trombone snake idea worked PERFECTLY! I was able to get all the lines perfectly clean with it. Since they are so clean and the ends still look solid without any splits or cracks, I see no reason to replace them.

As soon as I find the package of small hose clamps I bought a little while back, I will head back to the garage to oil seal the inside of the tank and put the oil system back together. I feel productive today! LOL!
 
  #46  
Old 05-02-2012 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by notlost_nc
Bolt 3 holds the tank and the cover.
You are right again. I forgot about that being a tank bolt.
 
  #47  
Old 05-02-2012 | 10:15 PM
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Ok, Clymer manual sucks, no exploded image of the oil filter mount. Mine's a little loose; ie: it moves slightly when tightening or loosening the filter. Would this cause a leak if not re-tightened? Can it be tightened?
 
  #48  
Old 05-02-2012 | 11:45 PM
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Clean lines and clean tank back in place. Just gotta figure out the filter mount which I will do another time when I feel like laying on the floor. Anyone have an good exploded view of the filter mount under the tranny?
 
  #49  
Old 05-03-2012 | 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by D1gger
Anyone have an good exploded view of the filter mount under the tranny?
I can send you one when I get home but I don't think you'll need it. where you screw on the filter there is a nut built into the adapter, hold the housing from above and tighten that, don't overtighten it.
 
  #50  
Old 05-03-2012 | 07:40 PM
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Just got back from the dealer. Picked up a new oil filter, rotor screws, locking washers for the inner primary housing, new crankcase o ring and a new seal for the clutch shaft in the back of the primary housing. Next trip will be the main primary housing gasket, primary oil, new plugs, wires and oil. The engine went out Monday so it should be at Harley by now. Its all starting to come together...
 


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