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90 FLTC Engine Removal

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  #31  
Old 04-23-2012 | 06:09 PM
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Just got back from Sears where I picked up the socket set. It was hanging on the wrong hook apparently, since it rang up $29.99 instead of $49.99. Gotta love unexpected little bonuses like that. Plus it gives me both the 1-1/2" and 1-3/16" size sockets needed in 1/2 drive which will fit my impact as well as the ratchet and breaker bar I already have.

After dinner I will be heading to the garage to play with the new tools...
 
  #32  
Old 04-23-2012 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by D1gger
After dinner I will be heading to the garage to play with the new tools...
Some don't understand. Can Never have enough tools.
 
  #33  
Old 04-23-2012 | 09:38 PM
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Absolutely, my Klingon friend!

Primary chain assembly is off, starter shaft off, inner primary case off, rotor off. Next up is the stator, then the engine mounts and it's out!

I took a break to consult the manual on the removal of the stator. looks pretty straight forward, push the voltage regulator plug back through the crankcase, then remove the 4 screws holding the stator in place and remove it. I think I'm going to try to finish pulling the engine tonight so that it's ready to go out for reman.
 
  #34  
Old 04-23-2012 | 10:01 PM
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One more question, there are 2 wires in a loom coming from under the right side of the engine. These are timing related I believe. The book says nothing about removing them, so am I to leave them there when sending the engine back?
 
  #35  
Old 04-23-2012 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by D1gger
One more question, there are 2 wires in a loom coming from under the right side of the engine. These are timing related I believe. The book says nothing about removing them, so am I to leave them there when sending the engine back?
Engine is now out of the frame, sitting on the floor beside the bike. I am calling tomorrow to arrange a good time for me to take it to the shop that's sending it off for me. Anyone know about the timing wires?
 
  #36  
Old 04-24-2012 | 08:14 AM
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You need to remove the timing sensor, if it's never been into, you may have to drill out the two rivets, remove outer plate, then remove the two philips head screws to remove another plate.

Look at the bottom left on the sensor, there's a triangle cut out, make a reference mark so you can get the timing close when reinstalled in the new motor.

Remove the two post (flat screwdriver), the sensor can now be removed, carefully feed wires through the hole in the nosecone, wires may be a liitle tough to feed through if the sheathing is frayed.

Then remove the bolt holding the rotor, then the rotor, none of these parts come with the reman.

This is worth repeating, make sure to remove the oil tank and clean thoroughly, change all oil hoses, don't skimp on this, the oil is filtered on the way back to the tank.
You'll be amazed at what comes out of there.

Get new intake seals too, the exhaust gaskets should come already installed it the reman.
 

Last edited by Schex; 04-24-2012 at 03:01 PM.
  #37  
Old 04-24-2012 | 12:39 PM
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Thanks for the info. I already planned on pulling the oil tank and such. The intake seals are not that old, I had replaced them last summer/early fall when I did the head gaskets.


I am getting ready to head to the dealer that's doing the shipping for me. Thanks to everyone for they're help. I'm sure I'm not done needing it yet! LOL!
 

Last edited by D1gger; 04-24-2012 at 12:43 PM.
  #38  
Old 04-29-2012 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ElectraDave
Comp nut is 1 1/2"....clutch hub nut is 1 3/16".....
Confirmation on this, it was dead-on. Thanks!
 
  #39  
Old 04-30-2012 | 04:29 AM
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good luck D1gger!...I'm looking at a rebuild or new engine myself in the near future....keep us advised on ur progress...
 
  #40  
Old 05-02-2012 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by miacycles
Once you get it out you need to clean your oil tank as there is metal in there and the new engine won't like that one bit. Also you may want to consider new oil lines as it is difficult but not impossible to clean them without damaging them. Hope this helps.
I just picked up a Trombone Snake from the music store. It looks like it will work perfectly to clean out the oil lines. I will keep you all posted on how well it works. It was only $5, has a round brush on each end and is about 3-1/2 feet long...
 


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