I don't know how I missed your thread. Well for the primary chain your going to want a piece of flat bar to lock the front and rear sprockets. I'm not sure what size sockets for front and back ( comp and clutch). I have a tool I use for my upgraded to 90's clutch that compresses the clutch but really you don't need that unless your going into the basket, but you can also take the basket once removed and using a pc of pcv with a slot in it and press, another story. Anyways once you remove the clip for back plate for adjuster nut your set. That flat bar piece will keep the two sprockets from turning while you break the comp and clutch basket nut free. DONOT remove your rubber motor mounts from bike just remove the 2 front bolts and 2 rear tranny bolts. The easiest way to remove and install the motor for me was to remove the heads in the bike but then again I wrench alone, so I plan ahead.

 

Woops just read back and realized your just pulling the motor to do a reman exchange. Ok so what I said but still don;t remove motormounts or disturb them, just remove bolts and away you go. You will have to cut down a I beleive 3/16 allen key to remove rear rocker covers and that will give you the room needed to rmove the motor. You probably already know to support the tranny.

 

I was already into the engine last year when I replaced the head gaskets, so I am familiar with the process to pull the rear rocker cover if I need to. Although since I pulled the floor boards and the foot controls, it doesn't look like I will need to. You say to use a flat bar to lock the sprockets, but how? I don't really think I need to worry about that though since the engine is seized. I just don't want anything to come apart on me that is going to create trouble later when I go to put it back together...

 

With the bar you would simply slip one end into the clutch teeth and the other end into the comp teeth, you will know when you have it in there right because the primary will lockup in the direction your either tightening or loosening the comp and or the clutch hub nut. Good chance if motor is seized that you wont have to do this unless of course it breaks the motor free when you try to loosen the nuts.

 

I just watched a youtube clip and still have one question. Clutch nut is reverse thread, right? What about the comp? normal or reverse?

 

Comp normal.

 

Once you get it out you need to clean your oil tank as there is metal in there and the new engine won't like that one bit. Also you may want to consider new oil lines as it is difficult but not impossible to clean them without damaging them. Hope this helps.

 

I was already planning on that. Thanks for the tip.

What size socket do I need for the Compensator nut? It looks huge!

 

I have come to realize a couple facts. The Clymer manual is insufficient for my needs; it has no hint anywhere of the needed size socket for the compensator and has so many little "refer to" parts that I am jumping through the chapters trying to read and understand the bits I need to know when the referred to sections might not necessarily be written as needed to reflect that particular procedure as it applies to the task at hand.

Also I apologize for asking seemingly newbie-ish questions. Having never been into a primary chaincase before now, it come across as intimidating and more difficult than it actually is. My main fear is taking apart something I don't have to take apart and ruining it in the process; ie: something flys apart and scatters parts all over the garage.

I am heading to Sears in a few minutes to look for the large socket set that should include the correct size socket needed for my compensator, which from the online research looks to be 1-1/2".

Thanks to all for your help with this project as it is very important to me, more than you guys know right now, but I will fill you all in later about that. I'm sure I will be back asking for more info on stuff you guys take for granted, but is all new to me. Thanks in advance!

 

Stick with it Brother,

For all of us guys that want to learn more about working on our own bikes, threads like these teach us alot.