I think that is the best reason not to stop and take pictures I have ever heard.

 

I have one on my 1.75 kw starter . I have used it a couple of times . I had a broken wire in my internal wired bars . It sure was nice to have .

 

I added the extra relay, but have the solenoid button as a fail safe, haven't had to use it yet, other than showing other riders

 

I rewired my relay to where the lights are off while cranking, very simple to do, and it definitely helps. The only drawback would be if you kill it in night time traffic, when you hit the starter button, no lights.

 

OK , back to basics . Prove your battery as good by having it " Load tested " at any auomotive parts shop for free . New batteries can internally short as well as old ( been there done that ) and will show false multimeter specs. unless under load. If your battery checks ok ., check starter solenoid/relays , dirty bar switch , wire contact points , last but not least ... starter motor itself.

 

Resolved old post from over 6 months ago...

 

No, it means anyone can crank the bike over. To start the bike requires ignition (spark), and that's on a separate circuit. Don't believe me? Try starting your bike with the solenoid push button with the ignition locked.

 

Didn't the older ignition switches have two positions for starting? One with the headlight off, and the second one with it on. Could these be retrofitted to the later bikes? Just a thought.

 

Yes they did. Mine had that style switch, but it worked lights in both positions and ignition in the last ('94/'95 peculiarity). On my bike it was simple to convert it to the old style day/night running positions. I don't know what would be required for a '96/up Softail. It can probably be done, but will require a bit more rewiring.

 

Cant imagine the new ones being too complicated. Mine has 4 wires. Ground, main hot, run, and start and thats an 07