98 Ultra, 42K miles when I replaced the top part of the rocker box gaskets last year. Once I learned about the warmup period, I now do that religiously and it ran great pretty much all summer.

At about 47K I developed another leak. Suspecting the rocker box again, I pulled & replaced the top ones again, made sure they were torqued down, no luck - still leaking. Finally one day I was looking at the right side of the case, where the pushrod sleeves bolt to the case. Aha! All 8 bolts were loose, so I tightened 'em up & voila - no more leak!!

Now I'm at 51K. Installed new fairing pouches behind the windshield. Rained like hell for a about 3 hours that day, 2-3" or so, while I was inside working. Unfortunately I didn't bring the new bike cover I got.

Riding home that night (maybe 40 degrees out - no more rain), got stuck in a crash backup. Pipes started smoking at the downtube, thought maybe I was leaking out the rockers again - but was thinking maybe they're warped. So I guess I'll be pulling the engine out, doing the complete rocker & pushrod gaskets, maybe head gaskets & head bolts (and maybe new rocker boxes, if they're warped).

After about 30 minutes in traffic we got going almost full speed (45mph) again. Except all of a sudden after about 5 miles, the engine shuts off, the left signal is stuck on, and I can't get the damn thing started again. Was lucky that I could pull off to the right into a big driveway, where I spent the next 2 hours waiting on a tow.

Towed it home, let it sit in the garage a couple days. Still the left signal is on, can't shut it off, and it won't start. Ran the ECM codes thru the engine light, got 5 codes:

23: front injector
24: front coil
25: rear coil
32: rear injector
16: low positive voltage

Now I'm thinking that last one is because I ran the battery down trying to start it and didn't put it on the charger yet. But those others? Did I maybe blow enough hot oil out to coat & hoze up all those parts? (Forgot to look at the dipstick to see how much is left...)

I'm also thinking that rain got down in behind the fairing and shorted out my turn signal module.

I haven't had a chance yet to pop off the fairing & the fuel tank, but does it sound like maybe the oil hozed up the entire fuel/ignition system? Or might there be some other culprit?

If anyone is left that hasn't fallen asleep reading this autobiography, I'd appreciate any insight.

Thanks, and ride safe!!

 

I'm not a HD EFI expert, but I know EFI systems in general.

Always start with a fully charged battery. A low battery could cause the computer to throw all kinds of codes. A bad ground somewhere could. Look for a common ground, like for the injectors and coils or something. I don't know how your bike is wired. Check the charging system fully. I have a thread here somewhere with an exact how-to. Search for "Dr.Hess' How To Diagnose Your Charging System"

You don't have to pull the engine out to do all the stuff you mention.

An external oil leak is not going to cause the problems your computer says it has.

 

Agreed on the low battery. I did charge it all day today, same results. (Didn't verify the charge with a VOM but will tomorrow.)

The bike is wired stock. I think I need to check the charging system anyway because the dash voltmeter shows I'm draining current until the tach goes above about 1K or so.

Even if the battery is bad I don't think it would throw these codes out of the blue, while riding. The other thing I'm thinking is the rain shorted & fried something somewhere. Doesn't seem likely, but these are the only two things I can think of - until I get down-and-dirty.

Thanks!

 

After charging the battery, clear the codes and start fresh. You probably need to disconnect the battery to clear the codes, but, again, I'm not an expert on your particular system. Otherwise, it will still report the same codes forever.

The low battery code could be from something draining the system down, like the turn signal on for a couple hours. If possible, disconnect the turn signal circuit. Is there a separate turn signal module on the 98's? I have an old-thyme flasher module. Could also be water getting inside your fairing from the work you did. Just guessing here.

You do have a factory shop manual, right?

 

Got the manual. Codes are still showing (I presume) because it still isn't starting.

I could disconnect the battery to see if the ECM resets. Not a bad idea ...

The turn signal module is under the fairing somewhere. Once I clear the codes & get the bike started, I'll take care of that.

 

Like others say start with a fully charged battery, and go from there. I have stripped both front and rear rockerboxes on a couple of twincams and re-gasketed with the motor in the bike with no problems, althought the rear one is a pita. I have had really good luck with James gaskets and recommend them highly.

 

Clear the codes, its not difficult at all and then re start. Mostly codes make no sense at all because mechanical woes can throw codes and this puts you off the scent.

Was it your front pipes smoking or a burning wire?

That charging issue is a worry.....time to pull the tank off and stare blankly at the wiring for a few beers....

 

Definitely the burning-oil smell, not the burning-wire smell.

Will disconnecting the battery reset the codes? Haven't found that part in the manual yet (but the wife tells me I look with my eyes closed...)

 

Just being stranded not long ago on my my 1998 Ultra.....not fun!!!

I would check all the fuses and relays, especially the EFI fuses under the right side panel.

If all that is good.....do basic troubleshooting. Is the Fuel pump working? Are you getting spark?

Last time I had problems, I had a few codes as well. Before clearing codes, I started with the lowest number in the codes. After one checks out, then I would go to the next. The factory manual eventually led me to the exact item. In your case, I would start with the front injector after checking the above I just mentioned.

I was working on a 1997 Road King with similar problems you are having. I believe it had the same codes as yours except the low voltage. Everything checked out ok finding no problems. Finally got the bike started after not replacing or fixing anything. The problem ended up being the front injector wire. It had a small break in the wire that would short out every once in awhile. While the bike was running, we took a small wooden dowel rod and was gently pushing on the front injector wire....bike died. After the bike died, knew it was the injector wire. I later read somewhere that the factory zip tied the wires too tight and the wire eventually broke.

We fixed that wire....and all the codes went away and bike ran fine.

 

It's nice to know the professionals approach these things pretty much like I do!