When you say it won't start, will it turn over?? Are you getting spark if it does turn over?? Let's try to figure out if it's electrical or fuel first.

 

I agree with miacycles. Disconnecting the ECM will not clear the codes. Without a scanalyzer I believe the only way to clear historic codes is through 50 cycle starts. Providing that the fuel pump is pressurizing you can resynch the ECM to the idle speed control actuator. Procedure should be on page 9-91 of your 1998 manual.

 

Oh yeah, forgot that this will be the earlier injection system....PIA to work on.

 

Turns over, won't fire. Definitely electrical.

Got out the manual, traced out all the signals thru the harness.

Discovered that all the coil & injector lines go thru the same EFI fuse (under the right-side panel).

So I checked the fuse, and sho' nuff it was blown.

Replaced it, hit the ignition switch - now at least the fuel pump is on.

BUT ... try to start, and BAM - fuse blown again . Must be a short somewhere.

Fun times, maybe a case of Flying Dog Raging Bitch...

Starting under the fairing around the turn signal module, then backtrack under the fuel tank (maybe the zip-tie was too tight?).

Thanks to all for the input! Updates to come as they happen!

 

Mine was doing the same thing yours is doing....just a few weeks ago.

Did the fuse blow only when you turned the igniton on OR did the fuse blow after the engine started? Did the bike at least idle when the fuse was replaced?

I had different codes than you were having. I believe my fuel pump fuse was blowing due to a partially clogged fuel filter. I eventually got a code 33 for fuel pump relay.

If I were you, I would swap a good relay in place of the fuel pump relay. Easy thing to try....

 

Fuse blew after trying to start. I thought about replacing the relay, but decided to look for the short first. I better get a crapload of fuses, 'cuz no doubt I'll blow it many more times before it's fixed...

 

Might want to think about picking up a mini blade circuit breaker for the fuse that is blowing. I am guessing that it is the 15 amp ignition fuse that pops. Try this one.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=122795_0_0_

Or this one:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...153_0282400443

 

Best invention ever!!

 

Started to tear down today to (a) troubleshoot short, and (b) replace the rocker gaskets.

After clipping all the tie wraps to spread stuff out & to clean off the harness, I found the short (first picture). Wasn't under a tie wrap, no idea how it broke thru, but there it was!

The next couple of pix show the fix: cut out broken parts, stripped & tinned end of the wires, crimped a couple of butt-end connectors & heat shrink to finish it up.

Turned on the ignition ... NO CODES!!!

And a bonus: the left signal is no longer flashing, and they all work perfectly. WTF? Or should I even ask that question ...

On to the rockers!

Thanks to all for your thoughts & ideas!

 

Nice job on the repair, I prefer solder, but crimp connectors work as well. The ECU is a complex piece of equipment, and uses the turn signa to indicate that the anti theft alarm is triggered. With that being said it is possible for a short in the right place can trigger a turn signal. Hope this helps.