replaced rear master cylinder, all brake lines and fittings, hose etc....no brakes!
#1
replaced rear master cylinder, all brake lines and fittings, hose etc....no brakes!
once I had everything tightened down and installed I added fluid and proceeded to bleed the air out of the system. I opened up the reservoir and added the recommended amount of fluid, fresh DOT 5 and pumped the pedal til I saw no air bubbles. Then later I came back to see if the pressure had built up or not and no it had not. I tried bleeding from the caliper but nothing comes out of the bleeder valve. not sure what I'm doing wrong here. Help please, thanks in advance.
#2
i saw no mention of bench bleeding the master cylinder before or after install. you have to bleed it first, the add your brake line(s) and bleed the air out of them.
your not getting any pedal because the master isnt moving any fluid.
i dont know the extent of your mechanical knowledge, but its simple really, and if you need further help, just ask
your not getting any pedal because the master isnt moving any fluid.
i dont know the extent of your mechanical knowledge, but its simple really, and if you need further help, just ask
#3
If nothing is coming out of the bleeder, then nothing is coming out of the master cylinder, or something is coming out somewhere else. Bench bleeding the master is always a good idea, but I sometimes skip it.
Is this a new MC? Or a kit in the original? Is your pedal adjusted right? A misadjusted pedal would cause pressure to build up and lock up the system in the first place, or did we mention that already? How exactly did you try to bleed the system from the caliper?
Is this a new MC? Or a kit in the original? Is your pedal adjusted right? A misadjusted pedal would cause pressure to build up and lock up the system in the first place, or did we mention that already? How exactly did you try to bleed the system from the caliper?
#4
When you pump the pedal, are you holding it down while you bleed it at the caliper? I just redid my wife's rear brakes and it went pretty smooth. Once I installed everything and filled the reservoir, I pumped the pedal about 10 times, held it down, and loosened the rear bleeder valve for a couple of seconds. Retighten and repeat. After the second or third bleed, you should start seeing brake fluid coming out of the bleeder valve. You can pump the brake pedal with your right hand and loosen the valve with your left, but it's easier with two people.
#5
i saw no mention of bench bleeding the master cylinder before or after install. you have to bleed it first, the add your brake line(s) and bleed the air out of them.
your not getting any pedal because the master isnt moving any fluid.
i dont know the extent of your mechanical knowledge, but its simple really, and if you need further help, just ask
your not getting any pedal because the master isnt moving any fluid.
i dont know the extent of your mechanical knowledge, but its simple really, and if you need further help, just ask
#6
[QUOTE=Dr.Hess;8667487]If nothing is coming out of the bleeder, then nothing is coming out of the master cylinder, or something is coming out somewhere else. Bench bleeding the master is always a good idea, but I sometimes skip it.
Is this a new MC? Or a kit in the original? Is your pedal adjusted right? A misadjusted pedal would cause pressure to build up and lock up the system in the first place, or did we mention that already? How exactly did you try to bleed the system from the caliper?[/QUO
This is a 1986 FXWG with a old GMA 2 piston rear caliper...pedal is fine, I did the reverse method from the bleeder valve.
Is this a new MC? Or a kit in the original? Is your pedal adjusted right? A misadjusted pedal would cause pressure to build up and lock up the system in the first place, or did we mention that already? How exactly did you try to bleed the system from the caliper?[/QUO
This is a 1986 FXWG with a old GMA 2 piston rear caliper...pedal is fine, I did the reverse method from the bleeder valve.
#7
I don't know what "the reverse method from the bleeder valve" is. Let's try the conventional method of brake bleeding. First off, make sure your MC pedal is adjusted as per your shop manual. Next, put a (preferably clear) hose on the caliper nipple, with the other end in a jar. Take the top off the MC. Crack the nipple open about a 1/4 turn. Pump the brake pedal slowly. Refill the MC as needed. Keep pumping until no more bubbles are seen in the jar, then while you are pumping down slowly, close the nipple.
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#8
"The reverse method" is the easiest, fastest way to bleed brakes. Go to the parts store and buy a NEW pump oil can...don't even think about using one that has ever had oil in it.
- Put teflon tape on bleeder screw threads.
- Fill oil can with brake fluid
- Connect hose from oil can to bleeder screw
- Pump plenty of brake fluid through bleeder screw
- Close bleeder screw
- Go drink a beer and admire your rock hard brake pedal
#9
Also bear in mind that, in my bitter experience, these darned things can change how they behave if you walk away and try again! Last time I bled my rear brake was after fitting a new caliper and hose. I pressed the pedal a few times using Dr Hess's technique above, intending to prime the system and it was hard as a rock. I wasn't ready for that - hadn't even 'started'! Took more goes than I recall to do the darned undisturbed front! So patience and a little luck come into it too.
If you go the DIY Forum there are other hints and tips to bleeding bl33ding brakes.
If you go the DIY Forum there are other hints and tips to bleeding bl33ding brakes.
#10
One other possibility. Did you replace the entire master cylinder, housing and all, or did you remove the old cylinder and install a new one. If you installed a new cylinder, were the two small holes in it, between the two o rings, facing up. Dealer mechanic told me if I installed mine with the two holes facing down, it would not work, but it will go in either way.