Blown head gasket
#31
Going to make a suggestion tool wise for you go to sears and get a 1/4" drive 12 point socket set an extension set with a universal joint and a set 1/4" dr allen sockets the ball end type are very handy for bike work . This won't set you back a lot of change and you'll find their easier to use and lot more handy reaching in spots like exhaust pipes and intake clamps and stuff like that . I use my 1/4" snap-on stuff probably 75% of all the bike I do
#32
#34
Rear cylinder is apart. I discovered a couple things. First of all, my problem seems to have stemmed from the right side head bolts(the ones under the rocker box) being barely more than finger tight. The left side ones gave the torqued down squeak as they came loose, the right side ones spun easily. The head and the cylinder both had some marks from the blow-out, but they buffed mostly out with a scotchbright pad. You can barely see any marks now. The inside of the cylinders still show the hone marks from the previous ring job and the pistons and internals look like new. The inside of the cylinder looks like it was rebuilt not long before I bought it around 2500 miles ago. There isn't a lot of carbon built up and the valves seal nice and tight. The studs are the ridged type, are all tight and all the same length, so it doesn't look like a pulled stud.
This is good news to me as I feel better about the inside of the engine. Apparently the previous mechanic just didn't torque the head bolts properly. Now I have to wait till my gaskets show up... Maybe while I'm waiting I will go look for my torque wrench... It's around here somewhere! LOL!
This is good news to me as I feel better about the inside of the engine. Apparently the previous mechanic just didn't torque the head bolts properly. Now I have to wait till my gaskets show up... Maybe while I'm waiting I will go look for my torque wrench... It's around here somewhere! LOL!
#35
My bad studs were also on the carb side. Ok after my experience and thinking of what you just said that they weren't more than finger tight I'm thinking perhaps mechanic did torque them but the studs are either stretched and caused the cap nuts to be loose or you have a couple studs that may have pulled some threads. Consider replacing all the studs. One way your going to know for sure if you got a pulled stud is when you go to retorque the heads the bad ones won't torque to spec. The studs have a stretch limit for a reason, when they reach the limit its time to change. HD has them for about 15-20 bux a piece.
#36
The carb side bolts were a little more than finger tight, but nowhere near as tight as the plug side bolts. I still needed a wrench for the first 1/2 to full turn, then it was finger tight. I just double checked again and all 4 studs are tight and the same length... They actually look pretty new...
#37
Digger I'm hoping it was just someones goof up but like I said you will know for certain when you torque them down. Make sure you throw the nit caps in a can of oil to lube up the threads before you reuse them. And if your not familliar with sliding the jugs back over the rings, I always use a big hose clamp for compressing the rings.
#38
#39
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Bluffton, South Carolina
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When you torque the heads back on, do it in four steps going criss cross each time. You should have a slip with the gaskets telling you to just torque them down to 42 FtLbs and leave them. Besure to lightly oil the threads and bottom flange of the nuts. Let them set overnight and re-check the final torque.
#40
Rear cylinder is apart. I discovered a couple things. First of all, my problem seems to have stemmed from the right side head bolts(the ones under the rocker box) being barely more than finger tight. The left side ones gave the torqued down squeak as they came loose, the right side ones spun easily. The head and the cylinder both had some marks from the blow-out, but they buffed mostly out with a scotchbright pad. You can barely see any marks now. The inside of the cylinders still show the hone marks from the previous ring job and the pistons and internals look like new. The inside of the cylinder looks like it was rebuilt not long before I bought it around 2500 miles ago. There isn't a lot of carbon built up and the valves seal nice and tight. The studs are the ridged type, are all tight and all the same length, so it doesn't look like a pulled stud.
This is good news to me as I feel better about the inside of the engine. Apparently the previous mechanic just didn't torque the head bolts properly. Now I have to wait till my gaskets show up... Maybe while I'm waiting I will go look for my torque wrench... It's around here somewhere! LOL!
This is good news to me as I feel better about the inside of the engine. Apparently the previous mechanic just didn't torque the head bolts properly. Now I have to wait till my gaskets show up... Maybe while I'm waiting I will go look for my torque wrench... It's around here somewhere! LOL!