99 fxr keeps popping breaker for neutral
#11
You wont be able to tell if your oil light goes out because it is out when the motor is running and will come on again with the neutral light as the breaker re-sets.
Your oil light,fuel gauge, tacho and neutral light get their power from an orange wire from the breaker.
Coil gets its power from the black and white wire from kill switch and that is fed from the grey wire that goes into kill.
You need to identify the breaker that is popping and tell us which colours go into and out of it.
Your oil light,fuel gauge, tacho and neutral light get their power from an orange wire from the breaker.
Coil gets its power from the black and white wire from kill switch and that is fed from the grey wire that goes into kill.
You need to identify the breaker that is popping and tell us which colours go into and out of it.
#12
#14
#15
You need to follow that baby blue wire all the way to see where it goes, it sounds like the N light is wired into the kill switch feed....that should be a grey wire but it might look blue...or....the orange wire has been mutilated.
Do you have a breaker with one or more orange wires coming off it?
Do you have a breaker with one or more orange wires coming off it?
#16
#17
#18
Alright well I checked and the baby blue wire is going to that breaker that keeps popping and I assume it goes to the N. light on the cluster. Also I checked everytime that breaker pops and its the only one that does. Voltage going to it is at battery voltage Not running is 11.6v and then the breaker pops and it will only have 8.6v during the POP. Then it will restart the breaker and voltage willl go back up to 11.6v.
So far I chased the wires down and dont see any chafing on wire and they all look good. Even when I disconnect the wiring harness from the cluster that controls the N lighting. The breaker still pops. The only wire going to that breaker now is the red/blk that splits from the ignition switch.
So why the reason for this now?
So far I chased the wires down and dont see any chafing on wire and they all look good. Even when I disconnect the wiring harness from the cluster that controls the N lighting. The breaker still pops. The only wire going to that breaker now is the red/blk that splits from the ignition switch.
So why the reason for this now?
#19
The secret to electrical fault finding is never to assume....you gotta follow that sucker all the way to the N light and tell us what you find.....Look in the cluster and see what colour goes to the N light, if it isn't blue then you need to find where the transition is and your fault will be connected to that.