The Goodridge fuel lines HDFL005 look very nice, but I thinking this is a Return Check Valve problem vs the fuel lines. Need to get this puppy up and runnng, so I will try the Permatex thread repair first. I suspect this bike being 15 years old its tank has been pulled enough times and this last effort by a local shop just exasperated the problem enough to start the leak.

 

I doubt that the check valves are bad, but they are replaceable, or so I have been told. Never could figure out how to get them out of there. Make sure that the fittings are not cross threaded in there. VERY easy to do. Look closely where the gas is coming from. If from in between the the bottom of the threads then it is either cross threaded, or the o rings are still bad. If it is from in between the swivel part of the fitting then the lines need to be replaced. If you replaced the o rings on the end of the nipple fitting, and it is still leaking, either it is cross threaded, or the internal o rings are bad. If it seals it would not leak, even if the valves were bad.

 

Well finally got through to the shop that did the work on the bike and they admitted they knew about the leak and that is why I got the bike back with no gas in it. Just failed to tell me when I picked up the bike. Grrr.

Turns out the one that is leaking (the return), they (the shop) had identified that the check ball was missing.

Was able to trace one (return check valve) down in Seattle at EastSide Harley (thanks to Brian in parts for rushing it up to Canada - now to see how long it takes to get through customs).

The shop claims they can replace this valve in 10 minutes once I have one - just make sure I have the tank emptied and trailer-ed to their shop. They claim they have this special tool for extracting the old one and replacing it with the new.

Hopefully once this has been done, I won't have the leak any longer. Thanks to everyone for all the advise and support. By the way, going to order those Goodridge fuel lines HDFL005 anyways as I do like them and they will clean up the looks from that part of the bike.

Jim

 

Got the valve seat by noon today. Damn that was fast. The part number is 61408-95A. Ran the bike down to the shop on the trailer and the mech had it in, in 10 minutes. No leaks now. Manual doesn't reference the component at all but its definitely required to seat the o-ring on the Return Line.

Glad that's corrected. Had visions of having to go into the tank and replacing the valves internally. Thanks to everyone for your assistance.

Jim

 

I'd try the tap first. Worked on mine after I pooched the threads.

 

It is in the manual on how to service those check valves. In the back section with the EFI junk.

 

So it is. I have never seen those instructions before. The OP may have difficulty getting the valves out if the threads are buggered. The service tool looks like a drag link with a long neck.

 

Thanks Moog Player:

I hadn't seen this more in-depth - stopped a few pages before and would have probably save you folks from some of my earlier silly questions. Old adage "RTFMa" (Read the frigging Manual again).

The tool the mech used was approx 3/4" by 4 inch long with hex nut on the end to torque the Return Check Valve in. It had a raised bar on the working end to slide into the slot on the body of valve. Took him no time to do the deed as I had the bike on the trailer and prepped for him to insert the valve. No sign of leaks as of yet, but then its still sitting on the trailer getting some last minute stuff completed. Road test this weekend.

Thanks all.

Jim