Been adjusting my clutch about a week now. At first it was chattering when you tried to go in first, so I backed the springs off and readjusted the cable. Tonight I ran it up the road and it shifted ok but the clutch cable would not return all way. Only 1/2 way. And 1st gear would chatter when clutch was pulled in after about a 12 mile run. I shut the bike off and went in a minute. Came out to move it and when cranking in first gear with clutch in it was pulling forward so I released the clutch and pulled it in to shift to neutral and felt a slight pop in the cable but it pulled in and shifted ok. I hit the start button and as it rolled over it seemed it was hitting real hard and jumping in the primary. What could cause this? I have been adjusting it cold. There is no abnormal noise from the primary on the road. The primary chain is tight about 1/4-1/2 inch play cold. If I back off the plates any more I will run out of threads, there is no slippage at this point.

 

Put the springs back to where they should be....tightened down.

Wind the mid-cable adjuster all the way in(fully slack)

Re adjust the clutch at the adjusting screw behind the derby cover but be aware that there is a false "tight point" so wind it in until there is no slop in the plate that the adjuster screw goes into.

Wind screw in and out until you find the point at which that plate comes up hard against the retaining clip.

Back adjuster screw off half a turn from that point and lock the locknut (what else would you do with it?)

Then wind out the adjuster in the cable until you have a little bit of slack in the cable at the lever...like 1mm.

Tighten locknuts on cable adjuster and go for a ride :-)

 

This is a E84 style clutch basket, no retaining clip. If you run the nuts all way tight you have no clutch at all. I had that problem before this. Was told to back the springs off till it slipped and turn it in 1/2 turn. Never got to the slip point so I have been adjusting all week, ride, cool, adjust. My hands have been in there more than the fluid.

 

Called my indy this am and he told me to adjust springs until I had 3/8" from spring plate to stud end. Adjust clutch cable as always. Did this and had good clutch no chatter and smooth shift. Let bike idle for about 10 minutes while I was getting ready to run get an inspection. Hopped on it and pulled in the clutch and nothing. Let off the lever and had 1/2 return on the cable. Pulled it back in and it whined. Cut the bike off and put it in gear pulled in the clutch and fired it up. Bike took off across the yard and I shut it off. How is this getting this far out of adjustment while idling? The lock nut is tight. I am adjusting it the way I always have. The shops close to me have estimated $500-$800 to pull the clutch and approx. $700 in parts. My indy is about 1 1/2 hours away. I can't afford this at this time. Under heavy pressure from the ol lady to either park it for the summer and fix it after vacation or sell it and count this as an expensive lesson learned. Don't buy a used bike.

 

Latest on the clutch: Readjusted the clutch springs all way in then back out till I had 3/8" from plate to stud end. Turned adjuster screw till it hit then 1/8 turn out and tightened the lock screw. Took up slack in cable. Had good pull and fired it up. Run it 1/2 mile up the road and it shifted good 1st-5th and turned it around at the school and bam no clutch. Pulled in lever and bike kept pulling. Let go of lever and it stayed pulled in. Had to go home in first gear. How can you go from great clutch to none in minutes every time.

 

This may be way off base but I'm thinking there might be a problem in your clutch cable. IE it might be frayed on the inside and getting hung up somewhere inside or it is just dry and needs to be oiled.

 

Indy on the phone seems to think maybe throwout bearing is bad and shaft may be bent. Irregardless I'm unlikely to ride this year. This used bike is gonna end up costing more than a new one.

 

Looked at an old post on here about barnett cables where a guy was having the same problem and it was his throwout bearing.

 

You could have a cracked release finger and/or sheared key. (it's on the right side behind the cover) a bad cable as mentioned or oil soaked discs. You also need to ensure the pressure plate is lifting evenly with the spring nuts adjusted. Counting turns is only ballpark so you need to pull the clutch and turn the engine over to check that. It only takes a very small amount of runout there to cause you all kinds of problems.

I'm working 7 days a week but if I weren't, I could hire a limo to drive me there, replace every inch of your clutch assembly (assuming the basket isn't trashed) for the amount quoted for parts alone and laugh all the way to the bank! None of that is hard to work on and the parts are dirt cheap, comparatively speaking. Hate to see anyone give up so easy and early in the season.... You need to find another mechanic, dude.

 

Yeah I know. But there are few here where I live. One is Rick Doss. $125 an hour labor. Just getting really discouraged. I used to be a indy years ago and am remembering as I go. Was a Sportster wrench before and Evos are different. Been digging in this bike since January. Seriously low on cash and patience. Right now the condition it's in I couldn't sell it for the loan payoff. But thanks for the info.