I don't know what you mean by almost running out of threads on the adjuster. You screw the adjuster cable all the way in, then adjust the adjuster screw and lock it down, then adjust the cable out a little bit, like 1 or 2 turns at the most, if any at all. Where are you running out of threads? On the screw or on the cable?

I also wonder if you might have the wrong push rod. If there were 2 types of ramps plus the finger thing, 3 (at least) different clutches, were there different push rod lengths? Just tossing out ideas, but maybe the push rod is too short and it is interfering inside the right side.

 

On the cable. I take all the slack out, loosen the lock nut and run the adjuster in until it stops. Then back it out 1/2 turn. Squeeze the lever 3 times or so and lock down the nut. I then take the slack up on the cable till I have a 1/8" inch of play in the cable. This usually takes all the thread of the cable. If I adjust out much more the cable will be in 2 pieces.

 

Ok I just run the cable in (total slack) and as I did it I run the adjuster screw in to keep just against the rod. I run the screw in all way as far as it would go, backed out 1/2 turn and locked it down. Squeezed the lever and took up the cable slack. Had really tight clutch at the lever. Closed the cover up and cranked the bike, pulled the lever in and had nothing. No pressure and clutch lever would not return.

 

To the best of my knowledge, Harley never built a bike with the old style clutch and a ball and ramp release, so technically there is no "correct" push rod. When you mix and match parts between years...you have to make them work. Going to the later ball and ramp release, you lose one of the critical adjustments on the old style clutch....the release arm adjustment.

 

I will be pulling it all tomorrow. Gonna pull the tranny cover and clutch basket. Going to check the clutch nut to be sure it ain't backed off any. When I cranked it earlier it sounded like it missed some teeth? Not sure though. The clutch did not have the lock plate that goes behind the hub nut. Didn't think about that till I got to work. If the basket is backing away from the primary when running I would lose the clutch. So I'm gonna back up and punt here. Start over and go from step one. With the primary completely off I can see what's going on.

 

Getting ready to dig into it. Called several mechs today no one seems to know the length of the pushrods. Only that the Evo is 3 piece and the Older one is 1 piece.

 

Didn't have time to do anything this evening. But, I did call several mechanics out in California. All had the same answers, 1. Ramp and ball mechanism has came apart and the 3 ***** have moved and allowed the ramp to move past the stop. 2. The clutch basket has moved off the cone and is moving back a forth giving a false adjustment or 3. The throwout bearing has failed and the pushrod is spinning and grinding down while it is running. Thus getting shorter every time I adjust the clutch and crank it. So hopefully tomorrow I can open it up. He says the Shovel pushrod will not work in the Evo tranny. Mine has the 3 piece Evo pushrod. Will keep you all posted.

 

Tore it down this am. Throwout bearing as gone, just a sliver of metal where it should be. Cleaned it all out and repaired. Run th clutch back and forth, should ball and ramponly go 1/2 way from stop to stop? Adjusted clutch now waiting to run get fluids.

 

If by halfway you mean pulling the clutch cable will cause the ***** to only travel through half of the ramp, then yes. With the clutch lever released, the ball sits in the middle of the ramp recess. Pulling the lever all the way in will cause it to ride to the top of the recess on one side. The other side of the ramp never gets used.

 

Sounds like you're on the right track. Just for the heck of it, make sure there is no "easy pull" clutch thingie in there. It would be a thing that the cable attaches to that then attaches to the ramp thing.