first gear prob
#1
first gear prob
Looking for a bit of feedback guys.
I rebuilt transmission as well as new Barnett clutch pack, I adjusted the tranny shifter thing in the tranny to as even as I could get it on the 2 pins. I adjusted clutch like normal and have atf oil in primary. Problem seems to be it won't always go into first gear( rear wheel won't turn) , I can go into all the other gears and when I let out clutch lever wheel pulls. I can get into first if I sometimes bring it back to neutral then kick it hard down to first. I'm thinking the tranny shift lever needs a bit of tweaking, just not quite sure if I should turn allen screw forward or back ( left or right ) I really don't want to pull tranny lid off as its sealed up good using gasgacinch.
By the way I get no clunk at all like I use to get dropping it into first.
Suggestions guys?
I rebuilt transmission as well as new Barnett clutch pack, I adjusted the tranny shifter thing in the tranny to as even as I could get it on the 2 pins. I adjusted clutch like normal and have atf oil in primary. Problem seems to be it won't always go into first gear( rear wheel won't turn) , I can go into all the other gears and when I let out clutch lever wheel pulls. I can get into first if I sometimes bring it back to neutral then kick it hard down to first. I'm thinking the tranny shift lever needs a bit of tweaking, just not quite sure if I should turn allen screw forward or back ( left or right ) I really don't want to pull tranny lid off as its sealed up good using gasgacinch.
By the way I get no clunk at all like I use to get dropping it into first.
Suggestions guys?
#2
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Bluffton, South Carolina
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You probably should never use gasket sealer, etc. on both sides of any gasket as it can make removal almost impossible. Add to that you have to scrape both surfaces possibly damaging them and getting gasket material into places they shouldn't be. That being said if all was assembled/adjusted correctly and you have no excessive play in your linkage, you can adjust it about 1/4 turn in one direction and see if it's better. If not go back the 1/4 turn to where you started then 1/4turn in t he other direction. Whichever direction works the best is the direction you need to be. This is not the correct way to do it, but it should get you going until you feel like taking the cover off and do it right. Hope this helps.
#3
Thanks John, I added more tranny oil ( using belray) it wasn't even showing on the dip stick with the bike level on the jack and dip stick sitting on the first thread, seems to go into first gear much better now. I'm noticing when I go through the gears with bike running and tires off the floor that I seem to now get a bit of 4 and 5th grinding like the shifter claws aren't grabbing the pins completely. I will have to adjust as you said and maybe pull the tranny top cover to see which way its not catching, that is if I can get past the exhaust pipe.
Was also wandering is shifting gears without revs a good test going from first to fifth a good trial compared to putting it under load on the road???
Was also wandering is shifting gears without revs a good test going from first to fifth a good trial compared to putting it under load on the road???
#5
No John, bike is running raised off the floor. I shift into 1 , let clutch out then 2 then 3 then 4 then five. I do seem to have a bit of problem going either upto 4 and 5 or down from 4 or 5 sometimes some grinding going on. I'm thinking the selector isn't quite going over the pins on the end of the drum.
#6
No John, bike is running raised off the floor. I shift into 1 , let clutch out then 2 then 3 then 4 then five. I do seem to have a bit of problem going either upto 4 and 5 or down from 4 or 5 sometimes some grinding going on. I'm thinking the selector isn't quite going over the pins on the end of the drum.
I don't see any mention you've ridden it yet (maybe you have) but if it's still on the jack and you've not ridden, don't even think about evaluating any of it until it's ridden at least thru several cycles of shifting all the way the gears. You'll drive yourself nucking futs trying to play with checking shifting while stationary. Trust me
PS - adjusting the pawl should be done between 3-4 gear to get equal travel on the lever at the trans...
Last edited by t150vej; 03-05-2011 at 10:51 AM. Reason: PS
#7
Good to see you're back together. Looks like your other thread was locked out.
I don't see any mention you've ridden it yet (maybe you have) but if it's still on the jack and you've not ridden, don't even think about evaluating any of it until it's ridden at least thru several cycles of shifting all the way the gears. You'll drive yourself nucking futs trying to play with checking shifting while stationary. Trust me
PS - adjusting the pawl should be done between 3-4 gear to get equal travel on the lever at the trans...
I don't see any mention you've ridden it yet (maybe you have) but if it's still on the jack and you've not ridden, don't even think about evaluating any of it until it's ridden at least thru several cycles of shifting all the way the gears. You'll drive yourself nucking futs trying to play with checking shifting while stationary. Trust me
PS - adjusting the pawl should be done between 3-4 gear to get equal travel on the lever at the trans...
I know the book says adjust in 3rd which I did, I basicly took total distance with it all the way to one side and divided in half which I think it came to .250 and used a drill bit for distance to both sides.
Ya the thread got locked out just when it was getting interesting.
I was actually thinking the same, trannies or a curious thing, they always act differently when there on the road, kind a momentum thing I guess. Still too much snow here to try it out.
The mainshaft inner bearing race just about went on all the way after I had it in the oven for a bit, I used the nut out of the clutch basket a couple big washers and the old race to pull the new race home.
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#8
Join Date: Sep 2007
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Hopefully you left .100" clearance between the race and the end of the main drive gear so that you can pull it off next time!!
Running on the stand with the rear wheel free can cause a little"slap" in the drive train and cause some problems as you arenot up to the speed that you would normally be shifting in and out of the gear selected.
Running on the stand with the rear wheel free can cause a little"slap" in the drive train and cause some problems as you arenot up to the speed that you would normally be shifting in and out of the gear selected.
#9
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08-11-2008 12:34 PM