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Stripped hole in inner primary

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  #1  
Old 02-14-2011 | 07:35 PM
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Default Stripped hole in inner primary

I was starting to do the front pulley swap and when I got to the point of removing the starter bolts, the front one came out with the threads on it. Apparently, when it was last put together it was cross theaded. I don't think it's a terrible thing since I'm removing the inner primary anyway, am I right? is that a blind hole or does it go through the inner primary? I figure on putting a helicoil in it. Is that the way to go, or what? I also found out that my air compressor doesn't have the ***** to loosen the compensator nut, so I have that to contend with as well. Suggestions?
 
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Old 02-14-2011 | 08:48 PM
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As for the compensator nut, wedge something in the chain like rags or a block of wood so that nothing will turn when you undo the nut, then put a big breaker bar on your socket and it will come off. Or, you can buy the right locker tool, or you can use a turnbuckle wedged between the sprocket teeth on the 2 sprockets. I've taken them off before with a giant adjustable wrench using these methods.

Helicoil should be fine on the stripped threads.
 
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Old 02-14-2011 | 08:50 PM
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Last year I pulled the cylinder studs along with the theads out of the casing, I went for the best fix I could come up with to be done in my shop, Time-serts are absolutely bullet proof. You really have a few choices heli coil , timesert or even get a welder to fill the hole and drill and tap it especially as the inner will be coming off.
As for the compensator nut you need a chunk of 1/4 inch flat bar cut the length to lock the compensator nut and clutch hub teeth, or even a heavy rag will stop the primary from turning, I've even used the soft end of a handle on screw driver jammed in between chain and teeth. I actually read some where not to use air impact on the compensator nut, I generally use a 1 inch drive and socket with a 3 foot pipe.
 
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Old 02-14-2011 | 09:04 PM
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"I generally use a 1 inch drive and socket with a 3 foot pipe."

...this is how i got mine off
 
  #5  
Old 02-15-2011 | 01:28 AM
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I bought an 18" 1/2"drive breaker bar off e-bay for doing mine and I use the ramped primary locking tool. I never stripp a bolt I have the heli-coil for!
 
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Old 02-15-2011 | 03:41 AM
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Thanks, I've got a chunk of hard black rubber that I ground to a wedge shape that I intend to try and I've got access to 3/4 drive stuff at work, I'll give that a try. Where does one buy "timeserts" at? Well, I found them on-line, but i see that Fastenal has them and they have a store about 1/4 mile from work. I was trying the Comp nut with an impact because that was prescribed by the service manual. Thanks again for the help.
 

Last edited by 96roadking; 02-15-2011 at 03:55 AM.
  #7  
Old 02-15-2011 | 06:31 AM
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I use an old 110 volt 1/2 in. drive impact wrench to remove the compensator nut. It'll put an air wrench to shame.
 
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Old 02-15-2011 | 08:18 AM
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Jeff,

Installing most of these thread inserts requires dedicated tools. A helicoil for example needs the correct size drill plus taps and insert tools, which can be expensive for a single repair. May be better to find a shop that can do it for you? Just a thought.
 
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Old 02-15-2011 | 08:30 AM
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Thanks Graham. Well, luckily for me, I'm a Maintenance Supervisor at a plastics plant and so, I have access to a lot of industrial use tools including a helicoil master installation set!
 
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Old 02-15-2011 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 96roadking
Thanks Graham. Well, luckily for me, I'm a Maintenance Supervisor at a plastics plant and so, I have access to a lot of industrial use tools including a helicoil master installation set!
Ah! Seems you're as well set up as you could possibly be!
 


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