89 clutch adjustment
#1
89 clutch adjustment
I know this is the place for answers so here goes. When I adjust my clutch and clutch cable to specs and by the book I end up with the clutch engaging with the clutch lever almost all the way out. It doesn't slip as far as I can tell and the bike only has about 12,,000 miles on it.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
#2
#3
Don't forget to squeeze the clutch lever several times during this procedure, also don't forget to take all the adjustment out of the cable IE: the adjustment on the cable should be screwed all the way in.
Loosen the lock nut on the clutch basket, screw in/out the allen head adjusting bolt. When you feel resistance to it going in squeeze the clutch handle, loosen the bolt and repeat, one more time. Now when you screw it in the minute it starts to engage the clutch STOP. Now un-screw it 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Holding it in place with the allen wrench tighten the lock nut with open/closed end wrench. An offset wrench works best here sometimes.
Now adjust the cable until there is about a nickel's width of play at the lever. This should be OK. Now lock down the cable adjustment.
If you want quicker or later engagement do that at the clutch adjustment by altering the 1/2 to 3/4 point.
With the derby cover off you can usually see where the clutch engages/desengages by watching the clutch disk spread open or tighten up.
Engine should not be running.
This is a repeat of above answer, because I don't have anything better to do at 2:40AM.
It is an easy task so do it as many times as you want to get what you want. Just remember to re-seat the ***** by squeezing the lever during the adjustment phase.
Loosen the lock nut on the clutch basket, screw in/out the allen head adjusting bolt. When you feel resistance to it going in squeeze the clutch handle, loosen the bolt and repeat, one more time. Now when you screw it in the minute it starts to engage the clutch STOP. Now un-screw it 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Holding it in place with the allen wrench tighten the lock nut with open/closed end wrench. An offset wrench works best here sometimes.
Now adjust the cable until there is about a nickel's width of play at the lever. This should be OK. Now lock down the cable adjustment.
If you want quicker or later engagement do that at the clutch adjustment by altering the 1/2 to 3/4 point.
With the derby cover off you can usually see where the clutch engages/desengages by watching the clutch disk spread open or tighten up.
Engine should not be running.
This is a repeat of above answer, because I don't have anything better to do at 2:40AM.
It is an easy task so do it as many times as you want to get what you want. Just remember to re-seat the ***** by squeezing the lever during the adjustment phase.
#5
#6
I don't know if your clutch is like mine or not, but there are actually 3 places to adjust the clutch on my bike: At the clutch adjuster (should be the middle of the cable on yours, I think, it's the cable end on mine), at the push rod end inside the derby and the pressure plate thingie, which has to be so far recessed when measured against a straight edge as per the book. Having that last one correct is very important on my bike.
#7
Thanks for all the replies. I have done all the adjustments like you said but I thought the engagement should be with the clutch lever about halfway out. I was trying to get that and couldn't get it to happen. If it is okay for the engagement to occur with the lever almost all the way out then I will leave it that way.
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