Starter Chatter/Grind
#53
Can I pull the clutch basket without pulling all the clutches again and readjusting the clutch. Somewhere I read I could remove the center nut and snap ring and lift the entire basket out (after loosening the primary chain tensioner). But still have to readjust the clutch? Pulling all the clutch plates was kind of a pain, but will do it if have to.
#54
Got a piece of 1/8 aluminum and gonna get the machine shop at work to cut me a spacer that the solenoid will fit into. So that way the solenoid is supported all way around and cannot wobble. Worried spacing it on the two tabs will allow it to wobble on the unsupported sides. Basically making a gasket out of aluminum plate. Will keep you guys posted. Believe my troubles are almost over. After this it's on to the flasher problem. No blink. And then I can get a sticker and plates. (NC you gotta get an inspection before you can get plates). Thanks for all the help so far.
#55
Found the problem:
Pulled everything in the starting system mechanical. First the solenoid and found the rubber boot was busted where it seals to the primary housing, thus sol. was in too far. Then I pulled the starter all ok there. Rolled the starter/jackshaft gear all ok there. Pulled clutch basket (ring gear eat up) and then the jackshaft/starter clutch. Took all components off shaft and the spacer noticed spacer would not allow the clutch to move much. So I took spacer to HD shop in Danville and had Mech. look it over (along with jackshaft) he measured the spacer (looked homemade was made from copper tubing?) and it was 13/16" the OEM one in the book is 7/16" so the starter clutch could not return when engine started and solenoid disengaged and eat the ring gear up. Now I have ordered a rubber boot and spacer. and will put it back together. The PO must have done some work and lost the spacer and just cut a piece using the guesstamation technique and run it like that.
Pulled everything in the starting system mechanical. First the solenoid and found the rubber boot was busted where it seals to the primary housing, thus sol. was in too far. Then I pulled the starter all ok there. Rolled the starter/jackshaft gear all ok there. Pulled clutch basket (ring gear eat up) and then the jackshaft/starter clutch. Took all components off shaft and the spacer noticed spacer would not allow the clutch to move much. So I took spacer to HD shop in Danville and had Mech. look it over (along with jackshaft) he measured the spacer (looked homemade was made from copper tubing?) and it was 13/16" the OEM one in the book is 7/16" so the starter clutch could not return when engine started and solenoid disengaged and eat the ring gear up. Now I have ordered a rubber boot and spacer. and will put it back together. The PO must have done some work and lost the spacer and just cut a piece using the guesstamation technique and run it like that.
#56
Did you get the problem solved? I bought a custom built bike. Has the twin cam evo, revteck 5spd, and the prestolite starter. Having same issues. Bike has a kickstart kit on it, so was able to ride. Prev owner said it had a bad starter. I just put on a high torque ***** starter, and it just grinds. Opened clutch inspection cover and the gear just hits the ring gear and hangs up. I can manually get it to back off the ring gear with a long screwdriver.. First HD, so new to this.
Tried jumping it straight at solenoid but does the same thing. Odered new solenoid today...
Someone said bend the forks where it goes on to the shaft.. Bend together? Bend them out? Which way? Thanks in advance
Tried jumping it straight at solenoid but does the same thing. Odered new solenoid today...
Someone said bend the forks where it goes on to the shaft.. Bend together? Bend them out? Which way? Thanks in advance
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