Always good to put in a carb kit. Just curious when is the last time you checked the connections of the circuit breakers? I had a similar problem last year where the bike would just shut down and not start for a few minutes, I replaced all the circuit breakers and no more problems.

 

Has this bike been set up with single fire ign and coils ?

 

Wow, This reminds me of the Gremlin I chased out of my bike last summer. I went step by step with the ignition systems and it turned out to be a faulty ignition module

Here's where you can read about:

Evo Ignition issues

Ignition Troubles Solved / Crane Hi4E module

It's all there if it is any part of the ignition.

 

ignition problems are hard to figure out. i would replace all the circuit breakers first. that's what it sounds like to me.

 

these are the same exact recommendations i was going to suggest, like the tank vent clogged, fuel filter clogged or even the fuel line clogged enough to where only a trickle of fuel could pass through it. if none of the above fixed your problem along with checking your diaphram in the petcock, and also perhaps in the top of the keihn carb, you might also check your float height. it's bound to be something pretty simple once you find it.

 

hey harley9701, i'm almost sure that the 97 model had the v.o.e.s. system. could that be the problem? hope you get her figured out.

 

Is your bike's gas tank petcock vacuum operated or do you turn it on and off?

The voes vacuum operated electronic switch would effect timing advance. Motor would idle but any acceleration would lag if it doesn't actuate.

If there's a vacuum issue these two items could be leaking vacuum and not actuating too.

Here's what helped me ... taken from the links ...When the bike stops running pull a spark plug boot and check for spark. You should not turn the bike off and back on for this test. When the module acts up it will operate normally, then suddenly the ignition goes dead for minutes, or until you shut off the ignition ... this often resets it and it'll work intermittently like this for quite a while. My experience was it just kept getting worse until it has to be shut down for a few minutes, then it'll only run for minutes, and finally dies completely.

Check for spark on the side of the road. I got to the point I just pulled a plug wire, got my finger close to the plug end of the spark plug cable and hit the starter (it'll tickle but not kill you). If you get spark after doing this test a couple of times then it's in your fuel connection along the way. Chances are you'll be surprised there's no spark.

I spent a lot of time with the fuel tank, gas supply etc. and it was valuable in my case because I did have issues but they were not what stopped the spark while traveling down the road.

Hopefully you'll have a chance to read through my links. It's loaded with many great suggestions from our members too.

 

If you still haven't upgraded to a single fire ignition, now's the time, also If the bike has VOES, I think they are only like 15 bucks, buy one and replace it, and make sure the vacuum line is in good shape (no leaks) S&S Bought out crane, but you might be able to find someone with old new stock cheaper.

 

Checking VOES is pretty simple.Run the engine and squezze the vaccum hose between carb and VOES switch. Or disconnect VOES wire while engine runs. There should be a change on the idle speed, if tehre`s no change, rev the engine up, it should rev up slower that normally.

If we are talking about Crane Hi-4.. I had it im my EG Evo. But the module went bad. At the beginning it backfired while the engine was very hot, then it backfired more often. If I pressed the module with my finger everything was OK. At some point one of the cylinder died for good. That was the end of the Crane in my engine. Crane`s are famous for their failures because of the heat and vibrations as they are mounted in the nose cone. I replaced couple of "dead" Cranes on my friends bikes. Now I`m running stock ingition. Bought pick up coil for 10$, module for another 10$ from my friend. Wired it together and it still runs after 2 years. Pick up coil was off Softail model, module off EG, all of them different model years than my bike. I had to use about 5 different wiring diagrams to connect it properly. I run it with single fire Crane ignition coil.

 

If your talking the old Crane that the main controlling component mounted in the nosecone then YES there were issues with heat and vibration damaging that unit.

BUT Crane makes / made a module only that replaces the ignition module. This unit uses the stock cam sensor, and can either work with a dual fire, or single fire situation.

The reason I bring this to everyone's attention is that my module replacement (Crane Hi4E) is functioning with better performance than the stock, and I have not (yet) seen any issues with my installation ... next summer will tell, but others with this module have used it without fail.

Other than checking for vacuum issues the VOES will not give you the issue described. If you disconnect it and plug the vacuum line the only thing you will notice is when revving it will miss and falter at FAST speeds. The voes is actuated when the throttle is rolled on and adjusts the timing to compensate. Again though only when the motor speed is fast. Yes disconnecting the vacuum line will slow down the motor due to the vacuum leak you've created ... that's not a real test for the VOES.

Cam sensors are notorious for failure. They are the one component that when there's an issue often heating the cam sensor with a heat gun will force it to show if it's faltering or failing. These stock cam sensors, in the nosecone, fail. Early designs were a bit crude in design. Updated version is a sealed epoxy component, better designed and less chance of failure.

But as with all older Harleys issues like these can be difficult to pin down. Worn insulation on wires and wiring harness, loose or corroded connections or connection plugs can all falter at odd times.