Yea will do, gave the back wheel a clean up while it was off, amazing what a bit of alloy cleaner does! The previous owner was very good at cleaning the bits he could see but never touched anything you cant see!

 

Seeing as your already committed to the braided line , pads and drilled disk you may want to do the rear brake kit and flush the line with new stuff. If your front fluid is looking dark flush it as well.

 

Wow, you do need some rear brake work. You didn't say it wouldn't work! You do need a disc, pads and fluid flush...maybe your caliper too!
The tires will go with all the new stuff too.
Good luck and enjoy!

 

New disc arrived and fitted looks very bling compared to the rusty old thing that was there before!



New pads sitting on the side, cleaned and stripped the caliper last night all looks good and everything is in good shape, new brake line should be here early next week and new tyre at the weekend. Hopefully a vast improvement on what it was!

 

Neil,

I have owned disc-brake bikes from the 70s, when they first came out. They were crap back then! The only ones that sort of worked were the rusty iron variety. Took the industry donkey's years to get the damned things to work well, especially in the wet. So I was rather fond of my old Glide's trusty rusty rear brake, not least because out of sight it didn't offend! Your bling disc is almost too much! Let us know how you get on with it.

SInce you've shown us yours, I'll show you my current one!

 

Nice floater Graham

Yea i thought it looked a bit to bling when i got it yesterday, but apparently it is specifically designed to increase breaking performance by up to 50% (thats what it said on the packet anyway!) im actually trying to lead the bike away from bling as it was a proper bling tractor when i got it, dripping in chrome, ive spent ages blacking it down and swapping out shiny parts for black ones and getting stuff powdercoated!

As you cant see it im not to bothered as long as it actually works! and im sure it wont stay looking that shiny for long!


Just need to find some 2000> forks and front brakes now so that i can improve them!

 

The caliber can be rebuilt. So to be sure you have as much stopping power as it had when new that's an option. With a new braided line, and fluid,new disc, it would be like throwing the anchor out when stopping.,,

 

Let's see some pics of that blacked out RK.

 

Still in bits at the moment, panels are off at the painters and a few small bits at the powder coaters, another 10 days or so and i will be showing her off i promise!

 

Whenever anyone says their rear brake does not lock the wheel, the weakest link starts with the hose, then the caliper, as long as fluid levels are correct. Of course having good pads and the a working master cylinder are all part of it.

Don't slack off on that caliper! Rebuilding is best to see if wear or rust has effected it's ability to clamp down, and release. Many upgrade this part of the system too.