Im presently changing out my cam in my 113 Ultima.
I was turning my back wheel to set the cylinder at TDC.
I wanted to get the push-rods at the point where you could spin them with your fingers. This is what I noticed. When I allow the push-rod's chrome cover to lay against the push-rod. Actually using a finger to keep it against the rod and as I turn or spin the push-rod. The chrome piece would move back and forth. Maybe 3/32nds. Besides holding the chrome piece against the push-rod and just turning it. I can see that the rod is actually bent. The threaded section doesnt follow straight and in-line with the rest of the rod. I checked the other push-rod and the intake of the rear cylinder is bent also. I'm still checking the front and it also looks like the exhaust push-rod is bent too. Not a serious bend. But none the less. It's not right. I'm getting ready to pull the rods and lay them on a micro flat table to check them for sure. Looks like I'll be ordering new adj. push-rods. This really pisses me off. The engine has only 3200 miles on it and yes I did the break in procedure the way they wanted. Any suggestions for new adj. push-rods? I dont want Ultima push-rods in there. Because their quality and their workmanship is questionable.

zoood

 

I put HD Screaming Eagle adjustable push rods in my 99 when I changed out the cam brg. They seem to work very well, not hard to adjust, and are very quiet.

 

the push-rods that I pulled out of my Ultima 113. The intake ones are silver in color. The exhaust are black in color.
The exhaust ones are a little longer than the intake ones. The threaded or adjustment section or insert is 2 & 1/2 inches long for the threaded section. This holds true for both push-rods. On the threaded section of the insert, the section that has the flat area across from itself (each side) that is 1 & 3/4 long. The remainder of the threaded area has no flats on it and is 3/4 of inch long. If I was to screw just that 3/4" section into the the threaded section of the push-rod tube. There is considerable play in the threads allowing the threaded rod to be wiggled in any direction. (Side to side) A tiny play can be felt when you pull and push it. When the locking nut is used. It locks the two together but not in a straight line. When the push-rod is turned in the lifter/rocker sockets with your fingers. It turns outta round, not in a straight line.

When you were messing with your push-rods. Did it have play to it as Im having with mine? Like what I wrote above.

zoood

 

Rivera taper-lites, they are strong, light weight and tapered for clearance, what more can you ask for?? No flexing so your valve events stay consistent. Hope this helps.

 

Last night I managed to take a video of the play in the push-rod.

Push rod Video

 

When you tighten the lock nut, doesn't the play go away?? It should.

 

That play is cause mostly by the flats that are machined in the sides that allow you to turn the adjuster. There should be a lot less if you try it towards the sides with the threads. When you lock them down the play will go away.

 

Not saying one manufacturer is better than another but I've been using the andrews adjustables without a problem. Descent price and also seem to be a good fit.

 

That threading is a fine thread. It should not have that kind of play. When the nut is tightened down. There is no guarantee that the threaded part is holding dead center with the push rod tube. When I opened engine up to do the cam. Its then that I noticed the push rod wasnt straight. And that was with the nut locked down from the factory. Anyways. new push rods are ordered.

zoood

 

I really do not remember if my Screaming Eagle pushrods were loose like that. I do remember checking them for straight on the coffee table, and they were. I think if they had been that loose I would have noticed though.