CV carb
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What I have found in the winter is to leave the choke on until it closes on it's on, at least my Mikuni does. If not, like b-law said, 10+ miles.
Your problem is very common for cold blooded carb-evos, they like to be warm or hot.
Also, if you don't know it. Don't force the trans in gear when cold, pull the clutch in during your last part of warm-up (approx 30sec), it will then go into gear without any problems, saves your stuff too!
Your problem is very common for cold blooded carb-evos, they like to be warm or hot.
Also, if you don't know it. Don't force the trans in gear when cold, pull the clutch in during your last part of warm-up (approx 30sec), it will then go into gear without any problems, saves your stuff too!
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Coloradowideglide (12-03-2021)
#6
Thanks for everyone's suggestions. Our temps done here, south Texas, aren't that cold. Our recent am temps have been in the 50's. The bike had been sitting awhile so I cleaned the main jet in the bowl. I noticed yesterday the plugs were badly fouled so replaced them and it's running like it should again. It must have been dumping a bunch of fuel. I'll see how the new plugs work out and keep you posted. You sure can't let these things sit.
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#8
My bike takes quite a while to warm up before it will run smooth even then its a couple miles down the ride before it runs smooth and even that depends what kind of mood its in, and my wifes sporty is about the same. This winter I will be soaking both carbs in a carb cleaning solution, just because.
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If the "cold heartedness" is not caused by a vacuum leak, then try richening up the idle by turning the screw out to 2 1/2 turns as mentioned previously. If that fails to cure the problem then go one step richer with the low speed jet. While you are in there you might as well put the needle from non-accellerator pump sporty in as well. Sometimes in cold weather you can also get problems from having done modifications to the slide/slide spring that causes the slide to open sooner. Engines running in cold conditions do not like this until they are good and warm.
Running with the choke/enrichner out can cause an overly rich condition which could wash some of the lubrication from the cylinder walls causing premature ring wear. On a Mikuni it isn't as bad as the enrichment circuit shuts off as the throttle is applied. This does not happen with the CV, the enrichment circuit stays on. Hope this helps.
Running with the choke/enrichner out can cause an overly rich condition which could wash some of the lubrication from the cylinder walls causing premature ring wear. On a Mikuni it isn't as bad as the enrichment circuit shuts off as the throttle is applied. This does not happen with the CV, the enrichment circuit stays on. Hope this helps.
#10
If the "cold heartedness" is not caused by a vacuum leak, then try richening up the idle by turning the screw out to 2 1/2 turns as mentioned previously. If that fails to cure the problem then go one step richer with the low speed jet. While you are in there you might as well put the needle from non-accellerator pump sporty in as well. Sometimes in cold weather you can also get problems from having done modifications to the slide/slide spring that causes the slide to open sooner. Engines running in cold conditions do not like this until they are good and warm.
Running with the choke/enrichner out can cause an overly rich condition which could wash some of the lubrication from the cylinder walls causing premature ring wear. On a Mikuni it isn't as bad as the enrichment circuit shuts off as the throttle is applied. This does not happen with the CV, the enrichment circuit stays on. Hope this helps.
Running with the choke/enrichner out can cause an overly rich condition which could wash some of the lubrication from the cylinder walls causing premature ring wear. On a Mikuni it isn't as bad as the enrichment circuit shuts off as the throttle is applied. This does not happen with the CV, the enrichment circuit stays on. Hope this helps.