All ***** cost more, that equals a higher profit margin. You make about 20-30 dollars on an Ultima Starter, and a lot more on a Spyke, All *****, etc. That should explain one reason why they reccomend them.

 

I understand the cheap oil change - you need more work sales pitch but it also true that the bigger Ultima starters need clearanced on "some" applications and the Alls ***** is a direct fit and great reputation, didn't want to spin the wheel if it was my application. If I'm in the right frame of mind, I'll get a Chevy starter in that hole but opted for path of least resistance - getting old and done enough "make it fit" on the white sled.

 

I'd check that voltage regulator before buying a starter. Sounds like a charging problem esp. with new stator and battery. Regulator and stator should always be changed at the same time if you are doing the stator. I took some advice I read here and "rubber mounted" my new voltage regulator with some rubber gasket/barrel material. Extreme vibration caused by hard mount to the frame cracks the isolator material and lets water in causing failure.

 

Point taken, I have thought of this but just haven't decided on a regulator.

 

My Ultima 1.4KW is two years old and still going strong...

 

Ultima 1.4k I think, from Jerieh, and ebay if I remember.. Was almost identical to the Spyke that was on my '88.. I have the older style with the separated solinoid, so my aplication is a little different. I would have to say that I'm not sure if a stock cranking battery is enough. 9 out of 10 times, she fires PERFECT, but growls once in a while... then fires fine.
The quality of build doesn't impress me, as far as the heat shrink on the cable, and the seeming unhardened hardware used to build it. the reduction gear on my old starter was coming apart and grinding a grove in the housing, causing it to lock up engaged from what I could tell. Since the new one seems nearly identical, I am a bit wary. Only been a few months, but i cannot complain... Some of you may remember my posts during that.

 

I just bought an "American Made" brand chrome plated voltage regulator at J&P Cycles for about $60 plus put on a voltage monitor with progressive LED's hooked into my halogen spot lamp circuit where the draw is really high. Really cool to glance down at my handlebars and see what the charging system is doing ( or not doing at idle). I've got high intensity headlight 90/100 watt; 55W halogen spots; halogen turn signals and brake light with the original stator.

With everything on my voltage monitor blinks "green" at about 2200 rpm. With the spots off it goes "green"/charging battery at about 1800 rpm.

 

I've had my 1990 FLHS from new and now have an S&S 107 in it, with the original stock starter! All I have done over the years is fit a new starter clutch to it. If your current starter is making funny noises I suggest you take it off and clean it before changing anything. If it is making funny noises could be the solenoid, which is cheap to replace compared with a starter.

 

Not so much a funney noise but more of a grinding once in a while and seems to be caused more by weak battery, the other day I had to boost the bike off the running car battery and it whirreled rigt up like it was a brand new bike. If I leave the tender connectd when bike not in use it also whirrels right up and starts fine with enrichener pulled and a couple shots of gas. There's a new battery this year, when I bought the bike there was two batteries in the bike, one in the normal spot under oil tank and a dry cell in the saddle bag which was why I gave it a new stator but kept the old rotor thinking that would eliminate the need for two batteries but I'm now thinking I should have gave it a new regulator as well.

 

Awesome tip.........That's why I read here.!