I need some cam advice.
#1
I need some cam advice.
I have a 1996 FLSTN with V&H Longshots & SE ignition, but otherwise stock. The guys I ride with all have newer TC88 & 96's, and they blow me off the road. I know there is no replacement for displacement, but will a cam help me out much. I've been considering an Andrews EV27. My bike has 22000 miles & otherwise runs great. Do I really need to change the lifters & pushrods, or can I add those later. I'm kinda on a budget. Thanks.
#2
EV27 is a good, bolt in, cam for heavier bikes. I run it in my 93 FLHS, but I often run two-up, and loaded down like a pack mule. The cam swap was a 'night and day' difference. You can use the OEM pushrods and lifters (if they are in good shape). It is suggested that you have your existing cam gear pressed onto the new cam. AND: REPLACE THE INA CAM BEARING WITH A TORRINGTON.
There are other cams that may make more 'sense' for your bike and riding style.
Whether or not you will be able to spank a newer TC or 96, will depend on how much more money you want to put into the engine.
There are other cams that may make more 'sense' for your bike and riding style.
Whether or not you will be able to spank a newer TC or 96, will depend on how much more money you want to put into the engine.
#3
Thanks for the reply. I don't want to spank the newer bikes, just kinda close the gap a bit. I do about 50% of my riding two up & looking for the best bang for the buck to increase performance. Eventually I will do a big bore kit as money allows, as I love this bike and plan on keeping it.
#4
There's a multitude of good choices for EVO B-T cams...Right now I'm using an S&S 562 which is no longer available new but you can find them used all day long on E-Bay. It's a bit hot for street use and is better suited for a stroker motor of at least 4-5/8" Stroke..
You can't go wrong with Andrews grinds either...They have been grinding cams plus producing push-rods and valve springs for over 40-years!!!
You can't go wrong with Andrews grinds either...They have been grinding cams plus producing push-rods and valve springs for over 40-years!!!
#5
Greetings,
Finish the Stage I, then go for the EV27 to bring it up to complete Stage II specs. In a normal state of tune, this should bring around 73 to 75 HP and 75+ FtLb torque and maintain most of your reliability.
The EV27 is a boltin and can use stock pushrods but what you spend in rocker cover gaskets and time will pay for a set of ez install pushrods.
As mentioned, be sure to change the inner cam bearing.
The EV27 isn't a "race" cam but a bottom end/mid range cam that will still pull to redline but buy won't scream on top and offers a much more rideable bike.
Check out www.nightrider.com for their step by step instructions for EVO builds in stages and resulting HP.
I followed their recommendations for my Stage I, then later, the Stage II on my 97 EVO using the EV27 and am very happy for the style of riding I do on my VTwin.
Finish the Stage I, then go for the EV27 to bring it up to complete Stage II specs. In a normal state of tune, this should bring around 73 to 75 HP and 75+ FtLb torque and maintain most of your reliability.
The EV27 is a boltin and can use stock pushrods but what you spend in rocker cover gaskets and time will pay for a set of ez install pushrods.
As mentioned, be sure to change the inner cam bearing.
The EV27 isn't a "race" cam but a bottom end/mid range cam that will still pull to redline but buy won't scream on top and offers a much more rideable bike.
Check out www.nightrider.com for their step by step instructions for EVO builds in stages and resulting HP.
I followed their recommendations for my Stage I, then later, the Stage II on my 97 EVO using the EV27 and am very happy for the style of riding I do on my VTwin.
#6
There are a lot of options for you. At 22,000 mile it is time for the cam bearing and new lifters...do yourself a favor and do not skimp here. Check Ebay for a kit that has the cam, lifters and adjustable pushrods. You will need to shim the cam, do not forget to do this too. Get the proper shim from your local HD dealer. Mine took a .055 shim. I would cut out the stock ones with bolt cutters (I did) make sure you change out the inner cam bearing with a torrington replacment, new cam cover gasket & exhasut port gaskets, adjust the pushrods and you are good to go. This is a very easy swap if you some basic tools. Get the HD manual, Clymer manuals are not my favorite.
#7
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#8
To do that the shop will have to do everything involved in replacing the cam, just to replace the inner bearing. In which case discuss with them doing the whole job. It would be a waste of time them stripping your bike to replace that bearing, rebuilding it for you to ride home, then you stripping it again to replace the cam!