Starter, not a TOTAL waste of time & $.
#1
Starter, not a TOTAL waste of time & $.
Well, my bike has been plagued with the Death Click for quite some time. I have been checking whatever I can and even did the solenoid rebuild kit. But sooner or later, that death click shows its ugly face. So I sucked it up and bought a brand new Ultima starter. I wound up with the Ultima Thunderfire 2.0 from Jireh. $151 delivered.
Now heres the point of my post. After pulling the bike apart, I can be pretty certain I did not NEED a starter. I went ahead and installed it anyways, but quite literally, every time I got to the next bolt or connection, it was loose, corroded or something. Even stuff I had checked in the not too distant past. I am totally confident that had I simply pulled the bike down to where it was to get the starter out, that I would have fixed my Death Click issue just by addressing what I found along the way. So I just wanted to post up for those fellow Evo riders that are having starting issues. Before you do like me and just *****-nilly toss cash at your bike.....pull the starter, get the solenoid rebuild for 20 bucks and go over the electrical system. I'll bet dollars to donuts that there are issues that are fixed. Its probably not a total waste that I installed the 2.0 as it really is a great unit, I'm just thinking my stock starter probably had plenty of life left in it, had all the other stuff not been a mess. Just wanted to share my tale of woe.
Neil
Now heres the point of my post. After pulling the bike apart, I can be pretty certain I did not NEED a starter. I went ahead and installed it anyways, but quite literally, every time I got to the next bolt or connection, it was loose, corroded or something. Even stuff I had checked in the not too distant past. I am totally confident that had I simply pulled the bike down to where it was to get the starter out, that I would have fixed my Death Click issue just by addressing what I found along the way. So I just wanted to post up for those fellow Evo riders that are having starting issues. Before you do like me and just *****-nilly toss cash at your bike.....pull the starter, get the solenoid rebuild for 20 bucks and go over the electrical system. I'll bet dollars to donuts that there are issues that are fixed. Its probably not a total waste that I installed the 2.0 as it really is a great unit, I'm just thinking my stock starter probably had plenty of life left in it, had all the other stuff not been a mess. Just wanted to share my tale of woe.
Neil
#2
Well, my bike has been plagued with the Death Click for quite some time. I have been checking whatever I can and even did the solenoid rebuild kit. But sooner or later, that death click shows its ugly face. So I sucked it up and bought a brand new Ultima starter. I wound up with the Ultima Thunderfire 2.0 from Jireh. $151 delivered.
Now heres the point of my post. After pulling the bike apart, I can be pretty certain I did not NEED a starter. I went ahead and installed it anyways, but quite literally, every time I got to the next bolt or connection, it was loose, corroded or something. Even stuff I had checked in the not too distant past. I am totally confident that had I simply pulled the bike down to where it was to get the starter out, that I would have fixed my Death Click issue just by addressing what I found along the way. So I just wanted to post up for those fellow Evo riders that are having starting issues. Before you do like me and just *****-nilly toss cash at your bike.....pull the starter, get the solenoid rebuild for 20 bucks and go over the electrical system. I'll bet dollars to donuts that there are issues that are fixed. Its probably not a total waste that I installed the 2.0 as it really is a great unit, I'm just thinking my stock starter probably had plenty of life left in it, had all the other stuff not been a mess. Just wanted to share my tale of woe.
Neil
Now heres the point of my post. After pulling the bike apart, I can be pretty certain I did not NEED a starter. I went ahead and installed it anyways, but quite literally, every time I got to the next bolt or connection, it was loose, corroded or something. Even stuff I had checked in the not too distant past. I am totally confident that had I simply pulled the bike down to where it was to get the starter out, that I would have fixed my Death Click issue just by addressing what I found along the way. So I just wanted to post up for those fellow Evo riders that are having starting issues. Before you do like me and just *****-nilly toss cash at your bike.....pull the starter, get the solenoid rebuild for 20 bucks and go over the electrical system. I'll bet dollars to donuts that there are issues that are fixed. Its probably not a total waste that I installed the 2.0 as it really is a great unit, I'm just thinking my stock starter probably had plenty of life left in it, had all the other stuff not been a mess. Just wanted to share my tale of woe.
Neil
These Harley Click of Death issues appear to be quite common, and very hard to track down. My theory is that, over time, the solenoid windings simply start to break down and develop higher and higher resistance, until they can no longer reliably pull in the solenoid plunger using all the current the battery can supply. It's only a theory, and others might disagree... but the solenoid rebuild kit only replaces the plunger and the copper contacts... there's no way to rebuild the actual solenoid windings, unless you take it to a rebuilder, and that costs a pretty penny. It's easier just to replace the entire unit and get a brand new starter in the bargain.
I got a chrome one for Bertha... which was an added draw for me, of course. Mmmmmm... CHROME!
#3
Well, that makes me feel a little better. This monster does work great for sure and spins the motor over like theres no plugs in it. I was just amazed at all the stuff wrong with the bikes electrical system. After a ride or two I'm going to recheck everything again, just to make sure its 100% up to snuff. But at least thats one less thing to worry about. Its funny, I actually wanted the 1.4 like you ordered, but they were out of stock. And since I already had a 330 amp glassmatt battery to combat the potential woe's I was having, they talked me into spending the extra money for the bigger starter. And I'll tell you, its quite a bit larger. My custom solenoid cover that I took of my Shovelhead, no longer comes even close to fitting under my battery box. Good thing I opted for chrome with the way this thing sticks out now.
#4
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Danville Va, Providence NC
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there's no way to rebuild the actual solenoid windings, unless you take it to a rebuilder, and that costs a pretty penny. It's easier just to replace the entire unit and get a brand new starter in the bargain.
I got a chrome one for Bertha... which was an added draw for me, of course. Mmmmmm... CHROME!
I got a chrome one for Bertha... which was an added draw for me, of course. Mmmmmm... CHROME!
I do admit I have never had a HD starter off before though. Have worked on all types of starters for other equipment, changed cases, housings, etc.
Maybe I am wrong? Wouldn't be the first time, lmao.
#5
I'm sorta confused here. The solenoid has windings? I thought the solenoid only pulled the bendix in and out to the flywheel, and the starter drive had the windings?
I do admit I have never had a HD starter off before though. Have worked on all types of starters for other equipment, changed cases, housings, etc.
Maybe I am wrong? Wouldn't be the first time, lmao.
I do admit I have never had a HD starter off before though. Have worked on all types of starters for other equipment, changed cases, housings, etc.
Maybe I am wrong? Wouldn't be the first time, lmao.
electro magnet, coil gets energized and pulls pin in.
#6
There are 2 sets of windings relating to the solenoid.
The "pull-in", and the "hold-in".
If it pulls in, but then releases again, you know it is the hold-in that are burned out.
If it does nothing, then it is the pull-in(assuming it is a winding issue).
Failures of the winding type are very common, and have been for since the introduction of the "car-type" starters.
On the early type(early eighties), you could just get a body off a mazda or similar, and attach the "drive housing". Very cheap.
The "pull-in", and the "hold-in".
If it pulls in, but then releases again, you know it is the hold-in that are burned out.
If it does nothing, then it is the pull-in(assuming it is a winding issue).
Failures of the winding type are very common, and have been for since the introduction of the "car-type" starters.
On the early type(early eighties), you could just get a body off a mazda or similar, and attach the "drive housing". Very cheap.
#7
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Danville Va, Providence NC
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#8
With 160,000 milles on my bike (and original starter), I don't think it's worth messing with the solenoid rebuild kit. I figure the clutch, commutator, brushes, and solenoid windings are ALL near the end of their life. Considering that I have to remove the starter to replace the solenoid contacts anyway, the labor is the same.
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