Charging system
#11
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Minneapolis Area, MN
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I'm having the same problem starting yesterday. Here's a link to my thread (unfortunately no suggestions though...just symptoms).
Another symptom I'll add is that with a volt meter hooked up I'd get 13V at the battery. With the engine running above idle I'd get 14.5V. When the tach and lights start freaking out, so do the volts...bouncing from 14.5 down to 8 or so. Kill the engine and it reads 13V again.
After a couple hour cool down I go back out and read 13V. Turn on the ignition and nothing...not a light, flicker, twitch of a guage, click of a selenoid...and the voltage drops to pretty much zero on the meter. Turn the ignition off...back to 13V.
Is yours doing the same pt?
Another symptom I'll add is that with a volt meter hooked up I'd get 13V at the battery. With the engine running above idle I'd get 14.5V. When the tach and lights start freaking out, so do the volts...bouncing from 14.5 down to 8 or so. Kill the engine and it reads 13V again.
After a couple hour cool down I go back out and read 13V. Turn on the ignition and nothing...not a light, flicker, twitch of a guage, click of a selenoid...and the voltage drops to pretty much zero on the meter. Turn the ignition off...back to 13V.
Is yours doing the same pt?
#12
#13
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Minneapolis Area, MN
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To be clear, I'm not trying to hijack your thread pt, just trying to help us both I guess.
Dr., not sure if you read anything from my above linked post, but I also go zero ohms across the stator plug. The 2005 vintage battery is at the shop to get load tested...pretty sure it's toast. I'd just like to know if it's toast from age / vibration or the charging system.
Dr., not sure if you read anything from my above linked post, but I also go zero ohms across the stator plug. The 2005 vintage battery is at the shop to get load tested...pretty sure it's toast. I'd just like to know if it's toast from age / vibration or the charging system.
#15
Yes, I read your thread, that's why I said short or the battery. Your further information that the battery is 5 years old means that should be replaced regardless. 0 ohms across the stator is difficult to measure. You need a pretty good meter to determine if the resistance between the pins is within factory spec. Open is pretty self explanatory.
#16
Join Date: Jan 2007
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As suspected, battery shot. Got a new battery in and checked stator while running, 40-45V at or just above 2k rpm. I'd road test it, but I need new rear wheel bearings. Hopefully tomorrow night or Saturday night.
Last edited by mtnlvr; 07-29-2010 at 07:14 PM. Reason: I don't know what day it is.
#17
#18
Got new parts installed today and It charges better then it ever has
The only thing that I could find was the rotor had been rubbing on the stator, There was some pretty harsh looking marks on the rotor and the stator had two of the fields shined up from the contact. I guess this would explain the noise I was hearing .
The only thing that I could find was the rotor had been rubbing on the stator, There was some pretty harsh looking marks on the rotor and the stator had two of the fields shined up from the contact. I guess this would explain the noise I was hearing .
#20
Yes i double checked that setting on my meter and have been on 200k so switched to 200 scale and am getting 0.7 but when touching the leads together I get 0.6. I have messed with it for couple hours retracing all the steps. When connecting one lead to ground and the other to the pins of the regulator I get 0.33 at each pin. I hooked everything backup and the symptoms I described earlier with the lights dimming and tach going crazy does not happen now for some reason. Check voltage at the bat 12.6V nothing on turn key on 12.2V startup and the most I can get is 12.5V at 3000RPM. Thinking of just replacing rotor stator and reg.