Sounds like we have either a pre 1998 or post 2002 swingarm length change. The part number for the 98 swingarm is 47549-97 which tells me there was a redesign for the 97 model year and maybe that’s when the additional 3/8ths was added? When I tore my bike down I did a side by side of both swingarms and they appeared to have the same dimensions and is why I went forward with the change, ordering parts and all. EVOrider has the same swingarm as mine had and his belt should be the correct length. That 34 tooth sprocket will make it a little shorter though.

EVOrider another option for swingarm bushings is to get a stock set with the 7/8th center hole and get them sleeved down to 5/8ths. I think the inside diameter was actually .630 but simply have the sleeve sized to the same inside diameter of your clevblocs. I have no idea what a stock set of bushings and spacers plus this machining would cost you, but if it’s less then $240.00 you’ll be ahead of the game vs. buying from CCE. Either way you’ll need bearings. Harley (and CCE) have press blocks that set the bearings at a specific depth inside the swingarm. The left side is not needed as that bearing is pressed in until it seats against a shoulder inside the swingarm. The right side is pressed in until the shoulder of the press block stops against the swingarm but I found the bearing to be just about seated if not completely seated against its shoulder inside the swingarm, just like the left side. I can measure this right side press block for you and post the dimensions if you’d like.

 

Thanks,

I can get takeff bushings, pivot axle, spacers of off a 2002+ bike for about $30. Bearings from 2002+ will work?

I know I can have the machine shop install a sleeve into the bushing to make it smaller. No doubt this will be much less expensive. I would appreciate the dimensions though.....

The only thing holding me back earlier from doing this.....was the price of bushings at Sta-bo and CCE. Just too expensive......for what a person gets.

Thanks again

 

In review - the one on the left is a little longer and the bearing stops against the shoulder inside the swingarm before the shoulder of the press plug touches the swingarm. The shorter one on the right stops when the shoulder of the press plug stops against the swingarm.




This is the important (?) dimension to the right press plug - 1.468




These press blocks were designed by smarter people then me but I do not see the reason for them. Both bearings could be pressed in until they stop and that’s it. But then again I’ve only done this once. I imagine the reason for the right side is to get a specific dimension between the 2 bearings (duh) but I had a small gap between my swingarm and transmission. I tried pressing the right side bearing in a little farther and didn’t see it move?? Once I bolted it all together the swingarm movement became stiff so I took it apart and fitted a ¾” axle bearing shim between the trans and swingarm. Once it was back in and bolted down all was well.

Good luck and if I ever did this again I would do exactly what you are trying...and for the same reasons.

 

I think you must be right. My original swingarm is 47544-85. There are two written sources I have come across that give details on how to do this swap and neither of them mentions the change in swingarm length. I had to solve the problem on the hoof when I bumped into it!

 

Charlie,
I was curious if you had any pics or specs on what you machined I am installing a 2005 swingarm on my 2000 rk and I was thinking about just maching a solid 1 piece bronze bushing just curious what other people are doing. I reall dont want to spend all that extra mone on a kit if i dont have to. Thanks Terry

 

I had a True-Track kit in my bike before I changed my swingarm, just had the the solid bronze bushings machined to fit the later swingarm, so what you suggest is exactly what you can get from TT.

 

Terry,

To ease in this explanation I submit the following visual aid. Obviously a lot of time went into the production of this visual aid so enjoy.



We need the width of the inner race of the bearing to complete the calculation of combined length. My bearings are in the swingarm so I can’t help you there. Maybe someone with a set can chime in. The bushing fits inside the inner race of the bearing (press fit with Harley, red loctited with CCE). With the inner race of the bearing being the widest part of the bearing (and wider then the smaller diameter section of the bushing), only the shoulder of the bushing is exposed once its pressed into the bearing. The spacer slides up against the other side of the inner race. These 3 components (per side) are sandwiched between the transmission and rubber isolators when the pivot bolt is torqued down. Nothing in this picture touches the swingarm, only the outer races of the 2 bearings do.

Hope this helps…

 

Charlie,

I have the spherical bearings I took out of my 2007 swingarm in front of me. Mine still have the T shaped spacer in them, which I cannot easily remove (my brother did all this sort of stuff for me). Including the .284 shoulder in your sketch and stetching my poor old 1" micrometer, together they measure 1.059". So your ? = .775".

Together we can do this!

 

Thanks Graham!

 

I'm a bit out of my pond on this thread, but recently installed a "conversion" with 5/8" pivot bolt. It was not only aftermarket, but off-brand beyond that so I didn't take any measurements except the bearing which was 1.75" OD, 1" ID and 1" wide at the inner race. It also spaced the bearing to the outboard position, exactly backward from the HD design and retained use of the thin nylon washers between the swingarm and isolators. It all lined up and fit perfectly on the transmission boss and comfortably snug between the isolators with zero play laterally and only enough resistance between the swingarm and isolators to hold it in the up position but allowed the weight of the brake caliper to smoothly send it to the bottom of it's travel.

Just for reference, each spacer/bushing is only $6.00 (total or 4) and the bearings are $28.00 each if purchased from a dealer. Of course they will have a 3/4" hole for the pivot bolt. They could be easily bushed and reamed for 5/8"

But for the ultimate DIY'er I'm including the following link. It requires some navigation, but you can see even the "economy" steel versions have a 52,000LB load rating (each) and the inner race diameter is equal to the width of the same, in all cases.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-ends/=6ue8a2

For the exact size bearing that was included in my 5/8" "conversion" kit, search: 63195K22 on the above webpage.